Roughly 100 km north of the polar circle in southwest Greenland lies the Arctic Circle Trail.
This long distance trail stretches for 170 km from the international airport of Greenland in Kangerlussuaq to Greenland’s second largest city, Sisimiut. During the summer months from June to September, the trail is free of snow and offers an adventurous hike from the inland to Greenland’s coast. Except for a few small cabins and one bridge over the biggest river, the trail offers no luxuries, not even cell phone reception.
In a group of three, we hiked the trail in late August (2014) when autumn was just about to start. It took us nine days to reach Sisimiut where we then spent our last day taking a well-deserved rest and enjoying easy-going vibes of this small colourful town.
We only met a few fellow hikers on the trail; in both directions and nine days, it had to be less than twenty people in total. The trail is far from being overcrowded.
Besides human beings, we also encountered numerous reindeer and polar rabbits.
Part of the way, we were paddling using canoes that are freely available at the shores of one of the largest lake on the trail. Most of the time, we were camping in the wild, enjoying fresh Greenlandic evenings and mornings, often pitching our tents in beautiful locations.
We only used huts two times for staying overnight; however, these were highlights of the overall journey thanks to the location of the huts and the level of comfort they offered to tired wanderers.
Several nights, Aurora Borealis (northern lights) created its magical performance in the skies.
The trail starts right at the airport terminal in Kangerlussuaq.
There is not much to do in the “town”, except for a short and necessary stop in the supermarket right across the street from the terminal - camping gas was the key commodity to be taken care of.
Then, a rather long and a boring asphalt journey starts; walking on a paved road will never be a delight, and such was the case here. Sometimes, people may get lucky here by hitching a ride. We opted for walking.
The Kangerlussuaq airport is surprisingly busy. Although there are just two daily international passenger flights (to Copenhagen and back), there is plenty of domestic flights and a lot of cargo traffic.
The landscape around Kangerlussuaq is a typical deep north experience: hills, tundra, and low lying grey clouds.
We walked along lake Helen and other small lakes before reaching the hut at Hundesø lake. It is a unique construction: a former caravan combined with other small shelters.
We decided to camp on the shores of Hundesø, preferring fresh Greenlandic air and lake view to wannabe comfort of the hut.
The evening at the lake was calm and clouds low-lying. It started to rain during the night.
Having woken up, we decided to stay in our tent due to persistent light rain.
After a while, we moved into the caravan-like hut. And waited. Waited. Waited… till 3PM, when the rain finally ceased. Then, we set out on the trail in the western direction, aiming to continue till twilight.
It was a lake country we were slowly crossing. Sometimes it was drizzling. There was hardly any time we were not in close proximity to a lake; there was always at least one around.
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Summer was approaching its end and autumn was just about to start.
It was felt in the air. The moss and grass colours were slowly turning into red and brown.
Lake country indeed. The terrain was more or less flat, except for one hill we climbed to get more extensive looks across the surrounding landscape.
In the evening, we even got some sunshine - just a little bit, but after two days of cloudy weather this was what we really needed to regain some optimism.
We reached Qarlissuit lake during twilight.
Clouds were lying low, and a strong wind was blowing from the west. Despite that, the landscape looked beautiful.
We pitched our tent on the shore of the lake, having carefully searched for a suitable place that was dry enough.
Except for one fellow hiker camping nearby, we were here alone.
The night was peaceful - and a bit cold due to proximity to the water. The lake and surrounding landscape formed a tranquil place.
It was here where we finally started to enjoy the trail fully.
We woke up into a beautiful morning with clear skies.
Of course it was cold and windy - but the sun was shining and everything looked much more optimistic.
The landscape around Qarlissuit lake was beautiful, especially during the morning low light; enjoying the views was far much enjoyable than the usual boring activities of preparing breakfast and packing up our gear.
We arrived at Amitsorsuaq lake and Katiffik hut around lunch time (and enjoyed our lunch at the hut). From the hut, it was not visible how long the lake really is. It looked like an average Greenlandic lake we have had seen so many so far.
It is possible to use canoes to paddle across Amitsorsuaq, but unfortunately there were none available at this side of the lake.
Which implied we had to walk all the way along the lake - not less than twenty kilometres in total; quite a cruel and boring exercise.
The lake seemed like a long animal without its end.
We were hiking along the surface water for hours. Hours. Hours… hours… hours… We knew the Canoe centre (with a spacious hut) is most likely out of reach for us during this day, yet anyway we did our best and hiked along the lake as far as we managed to.
Soon, the sun began to set and started to illuminate the lake and surrounding landscape with its beautiful evening colours. The temperature dropped as well and we had to quickly find a suitable camping spot.
We pitched our tents quite near the lake in a really beautiful setting.
It was a quick evening - dinner, a decent and well-deserved shot of whisky, and a good night’s sleep.
The evening views across the lake were like in a fairy-tale story.
The colours were magical and so was the silence of the landscape without human presence.
It was our third day in Greenland and we were thinking of what upcoming days shall bring to us - expectations were not set low.
Once more we woke up into a beautiful but rather cold morning. The sky was not clear, however the sun was shining and everything looked optimistic again.
The plan for the fourth day was not aggressive at all - we only wanted to finally leave Amitsorsuaq lake and hike a few more kilometres more to another lake called Kangerluatsiarsuaq with its picturesque sandy beach which the Cicerone guide book was promising.
As already mentioned, it is possible to use canoes and paddle across Amitsorsuaq lake and we were well aware of this. However, one has to be really lucky to find canoes on the right side of the lake. There are not 20+ canoes available any more (as the guide book suggests) - we counted barely five that may be described as being in required shape.
Luckily, at the Canoe centre (the biggest hut on the trail, located at the western part of the lake), there were two canoes available.
After a quick discussion, we decided give it a try and paddle across the rest of the lake. We would have regretted if we had not done so.
What a canoe journey it was! Our adventure was instantly upgraded into another level.
It took us some time to cross the remaining few kilometres of the lake using the canoes, even with a favourable wind. Yet it was a beautiful experience indeed.
Amitsorsuaq lake seemed like being endless for two days - but now, we were finally at the end of it. The sun was shining and we enjoyed a quick lunch being happy this endless challenge is finally behind us.
After quick lunch, we continued hiking to the west, slowly descending in a broad valley to another lake called Kangerluatsiarsuaq. There was no need for being fast, we had plenty of time given the goal set for today.
Summer was slowly ending and autumn was just knocking on the door, as on the previous days - and we were enjoying the surrounding tundra landscape that was slowly putting on pastel autumn colours.
There were a few reindeer close to Kangerluatsiarsuaq and some of them didn't hesitate to come quite close to us.
In the afternoon sun, the silence of the surrounding landscape was magical - we were here completely alone. No other hikers, no hunters, and no other animals except for the reindeer. A solitude seekers' paradise.
And then it came. Having climbed a small hill, we finally saw the beautiful and pristine sandy beach of Kangerluatsiarsuaq for the first time.
How much inviting it was! The sky was getting clearer in the middle of the afternoon - which meant we had a few more hours to enjoy this beautiful place under the shining arctic sun.
We pitched our tent on the shore close to the beach. The sun began to set and started to illuminate the landscape with its magical evening colours.
This may have been the most special evening we enjoyed on the trail - we even took a short swim in the crystal-clear waters of the lake, no matter how cold the water was.
The night was cold. It was freezing, in fact - the temperature dropped well below zero. In the middle of the night, we realised that Aurora Borealis is just holding a perfect showcase in the skies.
Having negotiated with myself, I finally decided to put my clothes on and went out of the tent to try to take a few long-exposure shots. It was so cold - but so beautiful.
We were in the middle of nowhere witnessing the spectacular performance of northern lights.
It was another sunny though cold morning we woke up into. The sky was clear and we enjoyed our breakfast in the first sun beams of the newly born day.
In moments like this, one doesn’t want to get back on the trail and resume hiking, but prefers to stay and enjoy the marvellous atmosphere - these are rather rare moments in the hiking life.
But the journey planned for the day was long - so we reluctantly packed our things and started to hike in the north-west direction.
Kangerluatsiarsuaq lake lies at the altitude close to zero metres above the sea level and we had to climb a few vertical hundreds of meters to continue further.
We managed to do so in a beautiful weather, the sky was cloudless. We were sweating a lot, however the views back to Tasersuaq and Kangerluatsiarsuaq lakes were magnificent.
Once again, we were here alone - no other human beings were close to us, it was just ourselves and the unspoiled nature of western Greenland.
To some extent, the landscape again reminded us of Scotland - rolling hills and numerous lakes. Here, however, without any sights of civilisation.
The day before at the Canoe centre we met couple of locals with small rucksacks instead of backpacks, and with a small dog. Wondering how they are making such a long trip without enough food, we asked. The answer we were given was quite simple - having a rifle, they were able to hunt, and were fishing too. Our ancestors would be able to survive in this way as were the locals - us, however, not any more.
We continued hiking further in the northwest direction with the aim to reach Ikkattooq hut and have a lunch there. It was not a short endeavour, though. Having reached the plateau, we continued hiking further on a flat terrain, again along numerous lakes. First clouds started to appear and during our lunch at Ikkattooq hut the sky became completely cloudy.
This was the only place along the trail where we were bothered by mosquitoes and midges - thankfully the hut allowed us to escape them.
Hiking the trail in June or July has to be a muddy and buggy affair. We always prefer August or September when going to the Nordics.
The trail led us to Ole‘s Lakseelv (Itinneq) valley - and the views of it from the plateau we crossed were stunning.
After a few days, we were finally at close proximity to the sea. We had to descent significantly and cross the valley, which was about to be a bit of an adventure - the ground was muddy and the path disappeared from time to time.
(Unfortunate things happen on wilderness hikes like this one and such was the case here on the trail in 2016 - a lonely hiker mysteriously disappeared and have never been found since that time).
Not for the first time, we saw a polar rabbit on the plateau; not afraid of humans, it was peacefully laying on the ground behind a stone, protecting itself from the blowing wind.
Finally, we descended to the floor of the valley. It was already late afternoon and the sun was about to set, illuminating the surrounding hills with its beautiful evening colours. We crossed the Ole‘s Lakseelv river barefoot and quickly continued further. It was still a few kilometres to Eqalugaarniarfik hut.
I have experienced this several times on different trails. If the daily portion exceeds twenty kilometres and backpacks are heavy, things become tiring and exhausting. The last miles of the day were exactly like this.
We reached Eqalugaarniarfik hut during twilight, hungry and tired. There was just one fellow trekker inside the hut which meant we got a chance to stay inside in a warm pleasant room, after a few cold nights spent outside in the tent. We welcomed this unambiguously, and after dinner and a shot of single malt we fell asleep quickly.
It was our fifth day on the trail. Exactly the middle of the journey. Beautiful, distant, unspoiled, and empty. We were in the true and unspoiled wilderness. And had another ninety kilometres to cross...
Waking up in a hut rather than in a tent does always have a few advantages.
Having spent all the previous nights outside, we really enjoyed warmness and comfort of the hut.
The day was about to start with a short climb to Iluliumanerssup Portornga plateau and should have continued along the ridge. However, it did not take us long to get lost - and subsequently enjoy some tundra walking across the pathless terrain.
When reaching Iluliumanerssup Portornga, the key point here is to turn to the left, directly to the west, and not to loose the path by descending to artificial lakes of a small dam located in the north.
We, however, continued to the north loosing the altitude, and had to find our way back to the trail across the boggy tundra terrain. It was surely a difference, especially with our heavy backpacks - even the narrowest path is always better than nothing.
The trail continued through a broad valley with numerous streams - which also means through a rather wet and muddy terrain.
The meadows with cottongrass fields were really beautiful, but no shoes can withstand continuous water attack from the damp ground. Luckily, we were heading to another hut which meant we had a chance of having our clothes and shoes dried out.
The Innajuattoq hut is nicknamed “The Lake House” in the Cicerone guidebook and no wonder why. Being spacious and built in a really beautiful setting, this may be the most inviting of all the huts along the trail.
We had a short swim in the lake in the setting sun, and enjoyed the evening and upcoming night in a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere.
It was about to be our second consecutive night spent inside a hut and we got used to the comfort of being inside a cosy and warm place.
We wondered whether we will use our tent again or whether we will stick to huts during the remaining parts of the trail.
These sunny mornings in the deep north… after a few days on the trail, nothing is more welcoming than a beautiful and promising beginning of a new day.
The sky was cloudless and the journey planned for the day was mostly slowly descending. It seemed that it is going to be another pleasant hiking day.
We started to climb gently to the plateau in the western direction. The views back to the lake were majestic; it was really a special place, and the hills of Taseeqqap Saqqa looked spectacular. The sun was shining, though soon we had to put our jackets on - strong wind started to blow.
Yet another day we were alone; there was another hiker in the lake hut previous night, however he left early in the morning, leaving us in complete solitude.
Having reached the plateau, we started a long and gradual descent to the floor of another valley.
Instead of following the marked path, we chose another one higher on the ridge, giving us perfect views of the valley below. The weather could not be more pleasant - it was sunny though not too warm.
We reached Nerumaq hut late in the afternoon; being a rather small affair, we decided to continue further and find a convenient camping spot somewhere along the trail.
The valley we hiked in was really beautiful.
The sun slowly began to set, illuminating the surrounding landscape by its golden hour light.
The camping spot we found was perfect and spectacularly located. A small grassy hill in the valley with beautiful views to the west.
We pitched our tent and prepared dinner. Slowly, it started to get cold as the sun was moving behind the horizon.
It was one of those evenings that are such beautiful that will never disappear from our memories.
We were sitting at our tent, slowly drinking single malt whisky and watching the magical sunset performance.
Once more and again, we were here alone - beautiful valley, unspoiled nature, nobody close to us, no civilisation around.
It had to be more than one hundred kilometres we had hiked so far - however, instead of being tired, we felt energised. Moments like this have some magical power.
The morning in the valley was as beautiful as was the evening last night. The wind was blowing, though, so we had to put our jackets on, and set out on the trail rather quickly.
After a few days, we were about the see the sea once again - now in close proximity to Sisimiut.
On the eighth day on the trail, our backpacks became somewhat lighter and bearable - food comprises majority of the weight on trips like this.
The path continued in the northwest direction in the broad valley we entered last day.
Sometimes muddy and sometimes going through thick shrubs, we went rather slowly.
It took us a few hours to reach the magnificent Kangerluarsuk Tulleq fjord.
There were several fishing huts on the other bank of the fjord - first signs of civilisation after a few days spent in complete wilderness.
We continued hiking along the fjord aiming to reach the tourist hut higher on the ridge. We took a short break there and enjoyed some sunbathing. The sun was shining and the wind ceased to blow - it was just beautiful to be there and take a proper rest.
It was already late in the afternoon when we started to climb the highlands of Qerrortusup Majoriaa. Several hundreds meters of elevation took us some time and effort - it was one of the more serious ascents of the trail, compared to the rest of the otherwise rather flat journey.
At the top of the plateau, we once more enjoyed views of the magnificent Kangerluarsuk Tulleq fjord.
With the sun already setting, we had to find a convenient camping spot rather quickly - and did it on the shore of a beautiful tarn high on the Qerrortusup Majoriaa plateau.
It was our last night in the tent and last night in the wild.
We were tired, however we knew that tomorrow we will be in the civilisation again. We were both looking forward to and regretting this fact; such contradictory were our feelings close to the end of the trail.
The sky became clear during the night and we woke up into a beautiful and calm morning. We were really lucky with the weather on the trail, maybe except for the rainy second day.
The sun started to shine and soon it became so warm that we ate our breakfasts shirtless.
People may be surprised to hear this, but it may be really warm in the deep north - this has not been the first time we experienced such a lovely weather pattern.
The lake we camped at was beautiful and had some cotton-grass fields around. We packed our things and set out on the trail - knowing we will walk our way through wild tundra landscape rather than staying on the path.
We went higher and higher on the plateau in a search for a lost bag.
Making a long story short, our friend lost his backpack here couple of weeks ago, being forced to return to Sisimiut, leaving his belongings on the plateau.
So we tried to find his stuff - however, unsuccessfully.
The area was too broad to find a small backpack.
Still, it was a little adventure - we hiked through an area where no other humans have been for years.
And than it came - having descended from the plateau a little bit, we finally saw the Sisimiut settlement for the very first time.
It was quite a distance, still a few hours walk, but it seemed like a miracle. Civilization!
Meals, beer, and a comfortable bed instead of the tent. We were slowly hiking towards the end of our journey.
After a few hours, we finally reached the small town.
There was some weekend event held, with a lot of locals outside. Lot of fun and a great atmosphere.
Civilization…
We headed directly to the Sisimiut Youth hostel where we planned to stay for two upcoming days.
The afternoon and evening in the town was perfect.
The settlement is very picturesque, especially in the low light of the setting sun.
There is one restaurant called Nasaasaaqin located in the Sisimiut hotel - no wonder this was the place we quickly headed to. Platter of Greenlandic food was served as a starter - frankly, some of the meals were rather strange. What followed was a proper beef steak (imported from Denmark) washed down with a few beers. Surely not cheap, yet it was a well-deserved treat.
We had one spare day left for the exploration of the settlement - and we did so with utmost pleasure, once again in a beautiful sunny weather.
The town's colourful houses were scattered across the rocky landscape, naturally fitting into the coastal area.
The Sisimut graveyard was located in the middle of the town - apparently, death forms a natural part of the life here, not being forced to be hidden somewhere in the outskirts.
“Living in harmony with nature” is the cliché put into practice here. Or better said, it has always been the case here.
Still, one cannot miss a few contrasts in the city - picturesque wooden houses and rough block of flats.
The town is an interesting mixture of the Inuit and Danish population, and to some extent also a mixture of different lifestyles - though most likely less contrasting than it had to be in the past.
We left Sisimiut on the next day flying to Kangerlussuaq, and from there returning back to Copenhagen. Sisimiut looked as much picturesque from above as it looked on the previous day when explored on foot.
So, we made it. 180 kilometres, 9 days.
Greenland is specific. Looking at the map of the island, it was clear from the very beginning it will be just a glimpse of Greenland we will see. Such a big land! This south-western part reminded us more of rolling hills and lakes of Scotland than of Icelandic wonderland or wilderness of northern Sweden. Being here on the trail, though, is a special experience - the solitude and serenity is incomparable and unique.
We may have met not more than twenty people on the trail. This is a trek for those who like to do it alone.
The journey was not magnificent entirely and continuously from its very beginning to the very end - but there were moments so magical that we will never forget them. Aurora Borealis, sandy beach, perfect camping spots, majestic fjords, beautiful lakes, rolling hills, and the picturesque coastal settlement.
© 2026 Northern Adventures
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