After six years and three previous visits of Sarek national park, Lapland, Sweden, time has come to return more to the north, into the area of Nikkaluokta, Kebnekaise and Abisko national park.
Actually, we already did Nikkaluokta to Abisko crossing back in 2013, wandering mainly around Kungsleden on less trodden paths. The idea for this year was similar in terms of avoiding the popular and more-and-more packed Kungsleden, however we included tackling Kebnekaise into our ambitions and wanted to reach Abisko following the route more to the west, via Norway, opting thus for an alternative, more isolated and adventurous crossing.
We chose the third week of September instead of our usual second week due to some time constraints – and were rewarded by fresh autumn snow since a period of cold weather arrived to the area shortly we set out on the trail from Nikkaluokta.
Also, our hiking crew changed a bit this year: with two brave newcomers joining our party (Petra & Václav), we planned to meet somewhere on the way the second group (Vítek & his family) that was pursuing a shorter hiking loop from Abisko.
Retrospectively, it was a great autumn trip, and the unexpected fresh-snow conditions upgraded it to another level that possessed somewhat a challenge, especially in higher-altitude areas of snow-covered boulder fields.
Yet, colourful autumn moods were still prevailing, and the atmosphere of tundra and birch-woods landscape lit by low light, boosting autumn colours to the maximum, was truly magical at times.
Reaching Nikkaluokta from Prague turned out to be a pretty straightforward exercise; (early) morning SAS-operated flight ✈️ from Prague to Stockholm was followed by another air transfer ✈️ to Kiruna.
Having re-supplied in the mining town (camping gas), we continued travelling to Nikkaluokta by a conveniently scheduled afternoon bus 🚌 which still allowed us a short first day hike from Nikkaluokta towards Kebnekaise.
Autumn was in full swing and slowly approaching its end, outside temperature was around 10 °C, and - surprisingly - despite the end of season Nikkaluokta was still full of hikers. Apparently, the proximity of Kebnekaise, Sweden's highest mountain, contributes to the popularity of the route between Nikkaluokta and Kebnekaise fjällstation.
We set out on the trail around 5PM, swiftly following the well-maintained trail towards Láddjujávri lake and a few Sámi houses at Ladtjoluspekåtan.
After two hours of hiking and enjoying a serene autumn evening, we found a convenient camping 🏕️ spot close to the trail towards Kebnekaise. Campfire (abundant birch wood 🔥) and sausages followed; just a perfect start of our 9-day long trekking adventure.
The sunrise couldn't be more spectacular; first sun beams illuminated vast birch forest surrounding our campsite, accompanied by snow-covered peaks of the Kebnekaise massive at the horizon line to the west.
The temperature dropped significantly, though, pretty much according to the weather forecast - morning frost was covering our tents' rainflies when we woke up. It became clear that a wave of cold air moved into the area and temperatures around 0 °C will last the whole upcoming week.
Having enjoyed our breakfast at the morning campfire 🔥, we continued hiking to the west following the well-trodden trail, occasionally meeting small groups of hikers who were coming from the Kebnekaise mountain station.
After a few hours of decent hiking effort, we finally reached a suspension footbridge across the glacial Darfáljohka river. Here, in a sublime albeit a bit cold weather, we enjoyed our lunch, accompanied by the autumn tranquillity of the surroundings.
Having taken a lunch break rest, things became more interesting when we begun to tackle the long Darfálvággi valley, continuously ascending in the northern direction towards Darfáljávri lake.
Summiting Kebnekaise was out of question: weather forecast for the next day was a constant sleet, and that's why we opted for circumventing Kebnekaise massive via Darfálvággi and Guobirvággi valleys, hoping for some nice views later during the day - the planned elevation gain for today was a rather cruelling 1000m.
After a few hours of constant effort we finally reached a rocky plateau at Tarfala, mentally preparing ourselves for the last stretch to a mountain pass above Darfáljávri and Gaskkasjávri lakes.
The ascent from Darfáljávri towards the smaller Gaskkasjávri lake was a time-consuming challenge: heavy backpacks full of food for nine days, occasional snow showers, and a few snow fields to be crossed over, some of them with slippery ice surface just beneath their thin snow cover.
Yet, views back to Darfáljávri and all over the surrounding glaciers and mountain peaks were stunning, especially during short sunny spells of the settling evening weather.
The stretch around Gaskkasjávri lake, involving some boulder-hopping in fresh snow, was particularly time consuming, however we managed to reach the pass above the small tarn just in time to enjoy the last sun beams of the setting sun.
Here, in 1460m, it became pretty cold too, and we took a short break preparing a hot Isostar drink. Actually, we reached the highest point of our entire hike, and were pretty glad we still made it in time.
The subsequent descent to Guobirjávrrit lake was easier than the previous ascent, though it was quite steep and again across a stony snowy terrain.
Based on our mapy.cz offline map, we knew there should be a convenient camping spot just at the lake - which was our hope since otherwise the terrain looked completely camping-unfriendly (boulders or damp moss). To our great relief, there actually really was a nice cleared campsite just for two tents near the lake, protected by small walls of boulders.
Tired yet happy, we pitched our tents, and fell asleep shortly after dinner, expecting deteriorating weather with snow showers all throughout the night.
What a morning (and the whole night)! Usually, inside a tent the weather seems a bit worse than it actually is, however constant wind and snowfall throughout the night meant miserable outlook for the whole day, weather-wise. Exactly according to the forecast.
The decision about the route was thus rather swift: quick descent all the way down through the long Guobirvággi valley, and a subsequent easier hike on Kungsleden to Sälka. Merely 14km in total however on a snow-covered rocky terrain in the first part, which proved to be a rather time-consuming exercise.
It took us a few hours to descend the whole Guobirvággi valley and reach the Kungsleden trail. We had quick lunch in a shelter near a footbridge across the Guobirjohka river, and then continued hiking on Kungsleden in the western direction towards the Sälka mountain cabin.
Luckily, weather settled down a bit although it remained overcast, and the beaten Kungsleden path was easy to follow, especially when compared to the morning cruelling exercise high in the Guobirvággi valley.
In Sälka, we arranged the "tent service" which meant access to hut's facilities and - more importantly - access to sauna. Since we visited Sälka back in 2013, we were really looking forward to it since we knew the sauna is cosy and beautifully located close to a small stream.
The more unpleasant was the morning, the better turned out to be the evening: sauna, warm wooden hut where we stayed for dinner, and good night's sleep in windless weather.
The morning was sunny though cold, and the wooden cabin came quite handy when we had our breakfast.
We packed our things then and started to retrace our steps back to the hiking junction near a footbridge across the Gaskkasjohka river.
The remaining clouds soon dispersed and we started to enjoy autumn sunny weather on what became the most beautiful day of our week-long wandering.
The Tjäktjavagge valley looked like in an autumn dream: colourful berry bushes, small tarns, and snow-covered peaks at both sides of the valley.
During moments like this, one immensely enjoys the natural feeling to be there, in the wild nature, far from the closest civilization, relying just on himself or herself, and caring just for the basic needs from all those we humans care for.
Our journey became even more beautiful when we left Kungsleden behind and started to hike in the western direction, crossing the Tjäktjajåkka river using a suspension bridge.
The ascent through the long Čuhčavággi valley was pleasant, being not steep and with a good footpath. Each look back revealed the whole massive of Kebnekaise, completely covered in the fresh snow, and posing proudly with its prominent yet elegant arc shapes.
We had a lunch break near the pass at the end of the valley, and made a few more shorter stops during the way, lazily lying on the grass and enjoying views of the monumental Kebnekaise massive under blue skies.
The path then continued along Gaskkamus Čuhčajávri lake before it emerged onto a plateau dotted with small tarns and with a more rocky terrain. We kept on hiking on this what is called Nordkalottleden, a long-distance hiking trail crossing northern Finland, Norway and Sweden, which winded here in the northwest direction on a pleasantly flat ground.
Needles to say, we hadn't met anyone since we left Kungsleden, and so it was during the upcoming three and half days.
The weather remained pleasant throughout the afternoon, although it became slightly colder as we got back to higher elevation at around 900m.
At the junction below Huvki hill we took the right fork and continued hiking for an additional hour or so, aiming to camp somewhere near a footbridge across the Gearbiljohka river.
There is only one disadvantage these beautiful hiking days have: the weather sooner and later changes again, and this time for the worse. With clouds slowly moving in, we continued hiking the last section of today's portion, enjoying warm sun beams of the upcoming sunset.
We camped on a prominent hillock with stunning views of the mountain plateau in the southern direction, with snow-covered ridges located in the landscape-of-no-men at the horizon line; looking at the map right now when writing this report, it looks like a rather vast rolling-hills area with no marked footpaths and huts.
We woke up into an overcast day with the surroundings covered by fresh snow. Luckily, the sun soon broke through grey clouds, and briefly illuminated the barren mountain plateau with its warming light, giving us some optimism for the upcoming journey.
With temperatures just slightly above 0 °C, the fresh fallen snow was melting slowly, and the persisting cloud cover hanging low over the barren landscape brought some melancholic moods into the somehow lifeless scenery.
The route was easy to follow on the flat terrain, and soon we reached the Swedish-Norwegian border at Vuolip Čoarvejávri lake, marked by a circular yellow-painted cairn.
Having crossed an interesting wooden suspension bridge across a small river flowing out of Vuolip Čoarvejávri lake, we continued hiking along the long Gautelisvatnet lake, finally reaching wooden Gautelishytta cabins.
We had our lunch there; to some extent, it was a strange place - it seemed to be located in a complete wilderness, at least three days on foot from Nikkaluokta, yet there was a gravel road leading to the lake from the west, which also explained the existence of a few private huts located nearby.
From Gautelishytta, we started to gain elevation again, slowly hiking in the northern direction towards a broad valley below the prominent Dulbbot mountain.
The landscape remained silent and barren; how many days ago did some other humans wander here? We may have easily been the last hikers here this in this year; autumn was slowly turning into winter.
In upcoming evening, we found a convenient camping spot with a fine view of Gautelisvatnet lake below us. It was quite a long day; twilight came soon, and we fell asleep swiftly, sleeping on the Norwegian ground for the first time during our wandering.
The sound of falling snow on a rainfly heard from inside a tent is not really confusable; this gentle rustling may sound calming however the longer this soothing meditation lasts the more interesting is the upcoming day about to be.
In our case, the snow was falling throughout the night, and neither did it stop in the morning.
There was not much we could do about that except to pack swiftly, and try our best to quickly yet safely conquer the mountain pass above us and to descent to a valley where the Cáihnavággihytta cabin is located.
The journey across our "favourite" terrain - snow-covered boulder fields - was slow and tiring, however at least it wasn't raining; in fact, snowing is much better than pure rain.
Descent from the mountain pass to the first of the two beautiful nameless lakes turned out to be more difficult than the previous ascent, especially when we lost our way, descended too much towards the lake, and had to traverse a rather steep rocky hillside.
Luckily, the weather started to improve when we finally descended to the second of the lakes, and soon we reached the beautifully located Cáihnavággihytta cabin.
With occasional short spells of warming sunshine we had quick lunch here at the cosy wooden hut, and then continued descending following the valley of the Čáihnajohka river.
Frequent snow showers accompanied our wandering, however finally and thankfully things became more bearable when we reached snow-free areas lower in the broad Čunovuopmi valley, sometimes even enjoying short sunny moments.
West wind was still bringing occasional drizzle, however everything looked much more optimistic when we reached a suspension bridge across the Čáihnajohka river - after a few days of crossing of a high-altitude mountain plateau, we finally got back to lower elevations, here even with some willow scrub and scattered birch trees - no more boulder fields!
The idea we had in mind looking at the map was simple: to find a convenient camping spot in the area of Stuorjalga, not far from the suspension bridge and near the river, and with some birch wood around we may collect and use for a long-awaited campfire.
During one moment, magical sunset light illuminated Čáihnajohka river which we observed from a small cliff, yet finally things turned worse when our campfire was swiftly extinguished by an abrupt snow shower.
The usual snow rustling on our tent's rainfly accompanied us throughout the night, and we expected another snowy ramble on the next day.
The two photographs above and below illustrate well how the landscape changed completely in the course of just twelve hours; autumn turned into winter overnight.
Fresh snow was covering the whole Stuorjalga valley, however at least it wasn't snowing any more; the sun even occasionally broke through thick clouds.
The plan for today was straightforward and easy: to follow the northeastern route towards Čunojávri lake, cross the border back to Sweden, and meet Vítek and his family in Unna Allakas.
We camped at this cabin in 2013 so we knew it's really a lovely place with fine views, scattered birch trees and small tarns. The hut was about to be closed at the end of the summer season just in two days (which was even one week later than in 2013), and based on our research there should be a sauna at the cabin (which I think wasn't the case in 2013).
The route was straightforward even with amounts of fresh snow; we went rather swiftly, also thanks to the flat terrain.
The only tricky part was crossing of the Gállanjohka river; apparently, there used to be a footbridge across the river (we saw remains of its construction), however this wasn't the case any more, and despite our relentless effort to avoid wading and solve the river-crossing by boulder-hopping, we finally had to give up, put our Crocs on, and refresh ourselves in the ice-cold river ❄️🥶😊.
The subsequent journey to Čunojávri lake and the Cunojavrrehytta cabin was easy, and even one strange encounter happened: we met a human! Let's replay our conversation:
"Hi", we said to an older male walking from the other side.
"Hi," he replied, and quickly left in the direction in which we came from.
Funny! In fact, it was the first human we had met in the last four days, and we kind of expected at least a few sentences or a short conversation - but it wasn't the case. Apparently, paths less travelled are chosen by those who don't speak much, which is something we appreciate in the end anyway.
We had quick lunch at the Cunojavrrehytta cabin and then circumnavigated the lake, walking in the eastern direction.
We lost our way at a private hut located at the northeastern end of the lake, which at the end turned out to be a good thing since we gained some elevation and enjoyed view across the whole Čunojávri and the Norwegian landscape we just crossed.
The last mile to Unna Allakas mountain cabin was a nice walk, and we even got a few prolonged periods of constant sunshine; small tarns, autumn tundra and snow-covered hills lit by the evening light all contributed equally to the tranquil atmosphere we gladly enjoyed.
Did we meet the other group in Unna Allakas, despite somewhat challenging terrain conditions after recent heavy snowfalls?
Vítek and his family started from Abisko, walked on Kungsleden trail and stayed overnight in a shelter at Rádujávri lake. The second day, they continued on Kungsleden to Alesjaure, and then they took a brave decision to cross the mountain plateau to Unna Allakas; in some parts of the plateau, the snow level was almost knee-deep.
It was already coming twilight, we were enjoying sauna in Unna Allakas when the other group finally arrived, to our great relief and pleasure - what an encounter! We had been out of GSM signal since we left Kebnekaise area, and with all the snow on the ground it wasn't that probable both the parties can make it to the agreed meeting point in time. Luckily, both the groups made it, and we all were looking forward to the joint return journey.
The morning was sunny albeit a bit cold. Even with persisting snow cover, things looked quite optimistic also thanks to the promising weather forecast.
Originally, we thought of tackling the higher-elevation route to Katterjåkk which we haven't done before, however given the snow levels and the similarity of this terrain to the scenery we already saw in Norway we reconsidered our options and finally opted for the easier route back to Abiko via Ábeskojávri.
The terrain was flat and the route easy to follow, slightly descending most of the time.
The slowly melting snow was moving the wintry landscape look back to autumnal; recent days we witnessed changes of seasons like in a live broadcast.
We crossed Válffojohka and another unnamed river via suspension bridges, and continued hiking along the broad Kamajåkka river for quite a time until we ascended a bit to reach the scattered holiday houses at Rovvidievvá.
At one point here the path went onto a small hill which offered spectacular views across vast birch forests, snow-covered peaks and Ábeskojávri lake at the horizon.
The view was really stunning: we were missing this subalpine vegetation zone comprised of old-growth birch forests since we left the Nikkaluokta valley, and were thankful for this autumn scenery we admired in the continuously improving weather.
Things got even more spectacular when we reached a footbridge across the Hoiganjohka river: simply, autumn can't be any better than what we experienced and saw here.
Endless birch forests in the tundra landscape, surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks... autumn wonderland 🍂🍁.
Our mapy.cz offline map indicated suitable campsites near the Boazojohka river; no wonder, because campfires are prohibited inside Abisko national park, and this place was just at the boundary of the national park.
Birch wood was abundant in the nearby forest, and that meant one thing: a *big* campfire. It turned out that me and Václav share the same pyromaniac obsession since we really wanted to make a proper campfire 🔥👌, and we did our best to do so 😜😇😎.
The morning at our campsite was overcast, and soon clouds started to gather and heavy snowfall began. We didn't really mind since this was our last day on the trail, and warm beds were awaiting us in Kiruna.
We reached Ábeskojávri lake swiftly, and then continued hiking on its eastern shore on the well-trodden Kungsleden path, meeting mostly day-trippers from Abisko.
The weather improved eventually, and the last kilometres to Abisko were easy and fast.
We had quick lunch in a shelter at the Abiskojåkka river, and enjoyed phone calls with our families after that - in fact, we had been out of GSM signal for about a week.
We took a train 🚆 from Abisko back to Kiruna where we had our accommodation conveniently booked in the Bishops Arms hotel which is located just above a gastropub of the same name.
We needed some proteins: beef was a natural choice for the most of us.
From the exquisite beer menu, we started with (Czech) 🇨🇿 Budweiser as proper Czechs, and made our way through English ales playlist to the local produce from Kiruna brewery that (maybe surprisingly) turned out to be the highlight of our well-deserved beer ride 🍻🍺😊.
It was our fifth time in Sweden, and the second time in the area between Nikkaluokta and Abisko. We have always visited Lapland in September, usually during its second week, and have always enjoyed the colourful fall scenery at the end of autumn – without snow.
This time things were different: we got snow. Lots of snow 🌨️❄️🥶.
Soon after we left Kiruna for Prague, it warmed up again a bit back to temperatures that are typical for this part of the year in Lapland. Which means we experienced an unusually cold period during the week we spent around Abisko. Well, this is not a complaint; not at all.
In fact, snowing was far much better than frequent rain that would otherwise occur. Besides that, the wild landscape we were crossing looked in a different way with its wintery look: fresh thin snow on the ground, snow-capped peaks. Sure, it was cold, and getting up early in temperatures around 0 °C was something we really had to push ourselves into.
The journey was beautiful; snow was our extra spice, and what we also liked was the fact we wandered across both subalpine and alpine altitudinal zones, comprised of different vegetation and types of terrain.
Norwegian part of the route was really isolated: we met no one in Norway. And those beautiful old-growth birch forests around Ábeskojávre… autumn paradise.
Besides that, the magic of the deep north was introduced to five more souls that formed our extended group this year. Everyone liked the trip, despite somewhat challenging snowy conditions.
Autumn in the deep north. Can we ever get enough of it?
© 2026 Northern Adventures
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