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Outer Western Carpathians

Moravian mountains across seasons

By Northern Adventures

Introduction

(Continuously Since Jun 2013)

The Carpathian Mountains or Carpathians are a mountain range system forming an arc roughly 1,500 km long across Central and Eastern Europe, making them the second-longest mountain range in Europe. The Carpathians consist of a chain of mountain ranges that stretch in an arc from the Czech Republic (3%) in the northwest through Slovakia (17%), Poland (10%), Hungary (4%) and Ukraine (11%) to Romania (51%) and Serbia (2%).

I have been visiting different mountain ranges of Outer Western Carpathians mainly in Moravia region, Czech republic for years, often outside the main summer season in spring or autumn periods.

Beskydy, Javorníky, and other mountain ranges within the region offer sublime landscapes, rolling hills, high-altitude meadows, and deep woods - often in complete solitude especially when one tries to escape main tourist trails and wanders off-the-beaten paths.

Rather than a narrative of a week-long trail, this post offers photographs and descriptions of different places and areas within the region, often shot in different seasons; spring and late autumn seem to be the most magical parts of the year here.

Part 1: MoravskoSlezské Beskydy (Moravian-Silesian Beskids)

The Moravian–Silesian Beskids (Czech: Moravskoslezské Beskydy, Slovak: Moravsko-sliezske Beskydy) is a mountain range in the Czech Republic with a small part reaching to Slovakia. It lies on the historical division between Moravia and Silesia, hence the name.

The Moravian-Silesian Beskids create the largest part of the Beskydy Landscape Protected Area (Czech: Chráněná krajinná oblast Beskydy or Czech: CHKO Beskydy for short). The mountains are 80% forested, though mainly by plantations of spruce which were in some parts severely damaged by emissions from the Ostrava industrial region.

Originally, the mountains were covered by mixed forest with dominant beech which are still preserved in a few places. Recently, permanent occurrence of all three large Central European carnivores – lynx, bear and wolf – have been confirmed in the area.

Kamenitý

Let's start with this small settlement of Kamenitý, or better said, Vyšní Kamenitý; one of the most beautiful views in all Beskydy is offered here in any season of the year.

Mountain slopes in this area are usually covered by deep (spruce) woods which prohibit nice views across the surrounding landscape - here, however, mountain meadows offer really nice view of Horní Lomná settlement, Mionší nature reserve and the ridge of Velký Polom mountain.

I have been visiting this place for years, sometimes spending a night in the mountain hut of Kamenitý, or just passing by having a quick lunch or dinner on different occasions.

Morning and evenings may be hauntingly beautiful here with the low light, and I tend to say that autumn is the most beautiful season here thanks to the fall colours all around.

Kamenitý stands for "a stony place" in Czech which somehow illustrates how difficult were the conditions here for farming and sheep or cattle grazing during previous centuries. From all the houses in the settlement, it's the former school turned into a mountain hut that helps creating the vibe here and attracts (sometimes way too many) visitors.

Over the years, only one thing has changed here: the wooden high seat, visible in some of my earlier shots, is not standing here any more since it was removed due to its bad shape (it was about to collapse as I was told by the friendly staff at the Kamenitý hut).

Kostelky

Let's move to Kostelky (953 m) hill, another mountain of Moravskoslezské Beskydy on the border ridge between Czechia and Slovakia.

There is a tourist hut called Severka on top of the mountain, however the fixture here are nice views over the ski slopes of Severka - Velký Polom areal that contribute to the special mood of this place.

Muřinkový vrch

Muřinkový vrch (975 m) hill is a woods-covered hill on the border of Czechia and Slovakia, with a nice small stony chapel built in 1910.

Frankly speaking, there are more interesting paths in the area than the border tourist "red" one reaching this place, and I strongly prefer to leave this marked footpath after Kamenná chata hut, following not-marked paths towards Úplaz and Mionší nature reserves.

Ostrý

I've only visited the isolated area around Ostrý hill and eponymous charming wooden mountain hut once, during a short winter show-shoeing daytrip.

The blue-marked path leading to Oldřichovice is a suitable entrance path to the area of Kamenitý, and the Ostrý hut located in the middle of the journey may serve as a convenient and welcome lunch spot.

Kalužný, Ropice & Prašivá

The main "red" tourist footpath leaves the area around Kamenitý in the north-west direction towards the hills of Kalužný and Ropice, following the mountain ridge surrounded by deep spruce woods - there are hardly any views to the valleys except for a few brief moments.

At the end of the journey in Prašivá, I wouldn't call the popular mountain hut a culinary place since the food served here was rather boring and unhealthy during my visit. However, the path ends here before steep descent to the valleys, and Prašivá is thus kind of an end (or beginning) of journeys in the area.

Skalka

Skalka (931 m) is the easternmost mountain of the Moravskoslezské Beskydy. On its top, there is a tourist hut owned by the Czech tourist club (KČT) and there is a ski areal of Severka - Velký Polom quite close in the western direction.

Skalka is an obvious place where to start hikes and I have spent numerous (first) nights here during my trips in the area, usually having previously hiked a bit steep 5-km section from the train station of Mosty u Jablunkova, often late in the evening with my head torch on.

There is a special "good old times" mood that the hut offers, and the Radegast beer on tap together with hearty cuisine shouldn't be missed when strolling in the area.

Forest Paths behind Kamenná Chata Mountain hut

Let's move to some hidden gems within the area of Těšínské Beskydy.

Not far the mountain hut of Skalka, there is another hut called Kamenná chata, connected by the "red" tourist path. Here, there is a trick that offers some extra magic: the key thing to do here is to leave the marked trail towards unmarked hunters paths, just behind the mountain hut.

The true adventure and unspoiled beauty begin here, with the unique possibility to hike from Kamenná chata hut to the nature reserve of Úplaz, and then further to the magical deep woods of Mionší.

JEstřábí vodopád Waterfall

There is a nice small waterfall on the Jestřábí potok water stream, located off the marked paths and requiring some effort to be reached.

It may look more powerful during spring snow melt, however it has some magic any time of the year thanks to its remoteness and isolation.

Úplaz

Hidden gems are called hidden since they are not easy to reach, and the nature reserve of Úplaz is a perfect example of such a place.

I do usually enter it following the hunters' paths from Kamenná chata mountain hut, and I haven't met anyone here during my trips yet. One remark to be made here is a bit funny: there is at least one camera in Úplaz used for automatic capture of moving subjects, aiming to photograph wolves - and without any doubt I have been captured several times here :-).

The nature reserve of Úplaz is comprised of mixed forests on the slopes of Menší vrch (893 m), Úplaz (949 m) a Velký Polom (1067 m) hills. There are no tourist paths traversing the area, and the place as such is hardly to be visited by average day trippers given its remoteness and isolation.

It's the autumn season when the area shows its magic in full, with deep beech woods all in brown and yellow together with grey tree trunks. A special place, a hidden gem truly - find your own way through!

Magical Woods of Mionší

And now, let's move to the most magical place of them all.

Mionší.

Deep primeval woods off the marked paths.

Old growth forest of Mionší is located north-east of Horní Lomná settlement on the ridge and slopes of Úplaz (950 m) and Menší vrch (883 m). There is a fine mosaic of woods and small forest meadows, with fir-beech primeval forest stealing the show, together with meadows of Velká Polana (893 m).

The remote area has attracted photographers for years, with Josef Sudek, Rudolf Janda or Petr Helbich, to name a few - it's a pure magic that's hard to resist, and I was personally blown away several times by hunting autumn beauty of this remote place.

It has to be said, though, the area is prohibited to be visited except for a short marked nature trail, however there is an (unmarked) path connecting Úplaz with Mionší, following the borders of both nature reserves.

Meadows of Velká Polana

Meadows of Velká Polana hill (893 m) are a stunningly beautiful place, unfortunately (or fortunately?) off the possibilities of those following the nature reserve regulation.

Views of Kamenitý and surrounding areas are a fixture here, and one can enjoy feelings of tasting the forbidden fruit by spending some time in isolation and admiring the sublime beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Malá Kykula

Short yet nice ridge footpath connects a few hills on the way between the Kozubová mountain and the settlements of Dolní Lomná and Bocanovice.

There are some nice views and less hikers around than that is usual at the nearby Kamenitý.

Kozubová hill & Around

Kozubová (982 m n. m.) is a hill located north of Dolní Lomná settlement, with the stony chapel of sv. Anna that also serves as a watch tower.

There is a fine view here in the northern direction across the (former?) ski slopes towards the valley of Olše.

Again, sunny October day is a bliss here, although misty spring or autumn days also have special moods to offer.

Below the hill of Kozubová, there are fine meadows with a nice wooden high seat, creating a picturesque scene in any direction and in any season of the year.

Lačnov

Let's move back to the ridges of Těšínské Beskydy, now to the meadows of Lačnov with fine views in the eastern direction towards Slovakia.

It's a nice place for a short stop, with a farm in the lower parts of the meadow.

Off the Beaten paths between Horní Lomná and Úplaz

Strolling off the marked paths offers unique experience to visit beautiful places without meeting anyone; this is exactly what the area between Horní Lomná and Úplaz nature reserve is about.

Slavíč & Around

The mountain hut of Slavíč ("Kolářova chata Slavíč") is one of the most well-known huts in Beskydy.

Built in 1898 by the German tourist club and located on the eastern slopes of the Slavíč hill (1054 m), it offers fine views of the Lomná valley and deep woods of Mionší.

I have stayed in the hut several times overnight, and may only confirm this is a relaxed place with the mood of good old times, offering fine Radegast beer on tap and hearty local cuisine (do not arrive later than 7PM since the chef leaves the place quite early).

Bílý Kříž

There is a nice mountain ridge footpath connecting Slavíč with the remote settlement of Bílý Kříž on the Czech-Slovakian borders.

From time to time, there are fine views of the Lysá hora mountain (the highest peak of Beskydy), and there is a convenient mountain hut in Bílý Kříž suitable for a short stop, snack or beer.

From Obidová to Lysá Hora mountain and Ostravice

The journey from Obidová to Lysá hora mountain (1323 m) offers one of the least-crowded ways of how to reach this much-visited peak; there are fine meadows, scattered houses and deep woods along the way.

The journey from Lysá hora down do Ostravice is a fine "exit" footpath from the area, with the village of Ostravice being a convenient small settlement offering a train connection.

Bumbálka, Smutníky & Kmínek

This southernmost part of Beskydy once more offers sublime landscapes, lack of crowds, and beautiful footpaths suitable for hiking, especially on the main ridge between Czechia and Slovakia.

There is a refurbished Masarykova chata mountain hut quite close to Bumbálka pass, and those who prefer older establishments with some moods of decay may prefer nearby huts of Sněžná or Kmínek.

The main "red" mountain path from Kmínek in the northern direction towards the pass of Konečná is a really isolated one, and unlike the northern parts of Beskydy, it offers frequent distant views, green mountain meadows and isolated scattered houses.

There are no roads here except for a few dirty tracks, which also helps to preserve isolation of this remote place.

The ridge of Gruň

I once stayed overnight in the beautiful old restored hut of Švarná Hanka, and was blown away by the evening and early morning magic of the surrounding ridge of Gruň.

The ridge has to be crowded by day-trippers during the day, however it offers proper moods of solitude for those sunrise lovers not afraid of getting up around 5AM.

Woods and meadows of Byčinec

I first saw these beautiful meadows from the mountain ridge close to Bílý Kříž, and has been tempted to visit the area of Byčinec ever since.

Thanks to missing marked tourist paths, this place hardly gets any visitors except for the locals owning the few scattered houses and farms in the area.

Moreover, it's even a bit complicated to hike across Byčinec due to private properties and fenced meadows, however it's still very worth the effort given the sublime beauty of the landscape and fine views of the Lysá hora mountain.

Part 2: Slezské Beskydy

Slezské Beskydy mountains form the northernmost part of Beskydy on the borders between Czechia and Poland.

Receiving less visitors than the southern parts of Beskydy, these mountains offer sublime beauty especially during the end of autumn, with colourful beech woods contributing to the fairy-tale atmosphere of the area.

The settlement of Návsí may serve as a natural starting point for excursions in Slezské Beskydy; tourist paths wind in the northern direction towards mountain ridges, high-altitude meadows and remote settlements.

Filipka

Filipka is a mountain settlement in Slezské Beskydy comprised of a few scattered houses built on mountain meadows among deep woods; fine views in all the directions together with lack of crowds contribute to sublime beauty of this isolated remote place.

Velký Stožek

There is a (Polish) mountain hut on the top of Velký Stožek mountain (978 m) - a lovely place that offers fine views towards Poland and an interesting mix of culinary and hospitality experience for those not afraid of communicating in Polish (using hands or whatever means of communication :-) ).

Malý Stožek, Česlar & Velký Sošov

This ridge walk on the Czech-Polish borders offers fine views, deep forests and scattered houses, and one may feel the eerie remoteness of the area here at the very end of Czechia.

Deep beech woods below Velká Čantoryje

Those beautiful colours of autumn during the last October days... is there anything more appealing and sublime than this short-term period of fall beauty that doesn't last longer than just two weeks?

Velká Čantoryje mountain (995 m) is the highest peak of Slezské Beskydy, on the border ridge 10km east of Třinec, with beautiful beech and yew woods on the western slopes of the hill.

Jablunkovské mezihoří

The short yet beautiful mountain ridge of Jablunkovké mezihoří is located between Bukovec and Mosty u Jablunkova settlements, and offers a few nice views of three countries (Czechia, Poland, Slovakia) in rather isolated terrain with just a few visitors around.

Here, the mountain chalet of Gírová is a place with a soul to stay in or have some food, and though I haven't stayed here overnight, I liked its good-old-times vibe and strong garlic soup I was served.

Part 3: Javorníky (Maple Mountains)

Maple Mountains (Czech and Slovak: Javorníky) is a mountain range of the Slovak-Moravian Carpathians that forms part of the border between the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Its highest point is Veľký Javorník at 1,071 metres. Javorníky stretches from the White Carpathians in the south to the Beskids in the north. The range divides the Bečva and Oder river systems from those of the Turiec and Váh along the European Watershed. Part of the range falls within the Slovak Kysuce Protected Landscape Area.

Yet again, like the remoter parts of Beskydy, this mountain range remains unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, and one may wander here hardly meeting anyone, maybe with the exception of the central part between Malý and Veľký Javorník mountains.

Portáš

The mountain hut of Portáš, built in 1932 just below the Stolečný hill, is located in the central part of Javorníky. There are fine views of the Beskydy panorama and the mountain hut itself run by friendly owners offers delicious food (I remember that the beef steak here was really excellent :-) ).

Malý Javorník, Stratenec & Veľký Javorník

The beautiful "red" ridge path offers vast views in both western and eastern directions, and it's a real delight to wander here on the borders between Czechia and Slovakia, especially when one is blessed by sunny autumn weather (as we were).

Malý Javorník (1019 m), also called Chotárna, is a mountain in the central part of the Javorníky ridge. Veľký Javorník (1071 m) is the highest mountain of Javorníky, already located in Slovakia. Between those hills, there is a hill of Stratenec (Ztracenec), with a touching monument of WWII fights in the area of Velké Karlovice ("Dne 3. května 1945 při osvobozování Velkých Karlovic zde na Ztracenci padli dva neznámí příslušníci 1. Čs. armádního sboru a Andrej Rabčan, narozen 9.11.1922 v Drabsku.").

Mysterious woods of Trojačka

It was a foggy October morning when we were blessed by a magical game of light in deep woods between Bumbálka and Trojačka.

Early morning sunbeams were breaking through thick fog accumulated in the forest in a silent fairy-tale performance.

Makyta

Located south of Portáš, the Makyta nature reserve exists mainly to protect forest growth of silver fir and sycamore maple.

The rocky woods and springs create a living environment for endangered species of plants and animals, especially birds and large predators - it is the only place in the Czech Republic where you can meet all three large predators, the lynx, the European wolf and the brown bear.

Part 4: Hostýnsko-vsetínská hornatina (Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains)

Hostýnsko-vsetínská hornatina (English: Hostýn-Vsetín Mountains or Hostyn-Vsetin Highlands) is a mountain range densely forested mainly by secondary spruce plantations.

Most visited are the bordering Rožnovská Bečva river valley in the north (with Valašské Meziříčí and Rožnov pod Radhoštěm towns and Dolní, Prostřední and Horní (i.e. Lower, Middle and Upper) Bečva resorts) and the southern Vsetínská Bečva river valley starting in the town of Vsetín with the resort of Velké Karlovice.

The Hostýnsko-vsetínská hornatina is divided by the Bečva river valley into the lower eastern Hostýnské vrchy and the higher western Vsetínské vrchy which are a part of the Beskydy Landscape Protected Area. The highest point is Vysoká (i.e. High Mountain), at 1,024 m, in the easternmost part of the range.

Benešky

The tourist paths crossing of Benešky (855 m) is located on the Vsetínské vrchy ridge between Soláň and Třeštík.

With fine views and beautiful mountain meadows, it's a really beautiful place suitable for a short stop.

Pálenice

The remote hamlet (farm) of Pálenice is another beautiful spot located on the main ridge of Vsetínské vrchy, once again with stunning views and charming mountain meadows.

During my hike here, I was strolling through the area around 7AM, with early morning light illuminating the surrounding landscape. Not surprisingly, being here alone boosts the fairy tale moods of this unspoiled place.

Soláň, Kotlová & Hutisko-Solanec

The hill of Soláň forms the central part of Vsetínské vrchy, and being quite easily accessible serves as a natural starting point for the trips within the area.

Mountain meadows, deep woods, fine views and isolated hamlets all contribute to picturesque moods of this part of Vsetínské vrchy.

Part 5: Bílé Karpaty (White Carpathians)

The Bílé Karpaty (White Carpathians) are a mountain range on the border of the Czech Republic and Slovakia, part of the Carpathians.

They are part of the Slovak-Moravian Carpathians, stretching from the Váh river and the Little Carpathians in the south along the border between the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the Morava and the Javorníky range in the north.

The landscape is protected on both sides of the mountains: Biele Karpaty Protected Landscape Area in Slovakia, founded in 1979, and Bílé Karpaty Protected Landscape Area in the Czech Republic, founded in 1980, a Man and Biosphere Reserve since 1996.

The areas contain a wide variety of fauna and flora. Some species found there are endemic, especially some types of orchids which grow only in the meadows of the White Carpathians.

Pulčín

The area of Pulčinské skály (Rocks of Pulčín) forms the northernmost part of Bílé Karpaty and is connected with Javorníky mountains via the Makyta nature reserve.

It's a fine secluded area off-the-beaten-paths, with fine views, rolling hills and scattered settlements; I doubt there are many visitors here even in the peak summer season.

Pulčínské skály

Close to the small outpost of Pulčín, the unique rock town Pulčín rocks (Pulčínské skály) lies on the slope of the peak Hradisko 773 m above the Wallachian village of Pulčín.

It is the largest sandstone rock town in the Moravian Carpathians, and it features a bit adventurous footpath from the bottom of Hradisko to its top.

Francova lhota, Střelná, Požár, Vysocká & Kaňúr

The main "red" tourist path continues from Pulčín across the settlements of Francova Lhota and Střelná towards the Czech-Slovakian border ridge of Bílé Karpaty, offering some nice views near the Požár hill, beautiful meadows below Vysocká, and finally reaching the main ridge proper at Kaňúr.

Below the hill of Okršlisko, it makes sense to leave the marked "red" tourist path behind, and wander on forest paths towards the meadows below Tratihušť.

The area here above the small settlement of Sidonie is really beautiful, and the vast meadows may be traversed in any direction, giving enough freedom to hikers not afraid of making their own path down to the valley of Vlárský průsmyk pass.

Moravské Kopanice: Žítková, Žiariky, Vyškovec & Lopeník

There are a few villages and numerous scattered mountain settlements located north of the main part of Bílé Karpaty around Velká Javořina mountain, forming the area known as Moravské Kopanice.

Moravské Kopanice is an isolated area where old traditions had been conserved for a long time, and its name comes from the way the soil was worked here. People who lived here had to dig – or kopat – with hoes to be able to grow at least something on the barren slopes. These people were called Kopaničáři and the area was named Moravské Kopanice.

The picturesque landscape offers beautiful views of the colourful mosaic of small fields, gardens, groves and meadows full of orchids.

The frontier mountain Velká Javořina (970m) in the Bílé Karpaty mountain range has been the traditional place of meetings of the Czechs, the Moravians and the Slovaks since 1845.

The Memorial of Solidarity of the Czechs, the Moravians and the Slovaks symbolizes the tight links of the two nations-brothers.

The national nature reserve located here covers forest stands on the northern slopes of Velká Javořina which are left to spontaneous development and mainly consist of beech, sycamore and ash, with a primeval character at the highest elevations. The buffer zone consists of the mountain summit meadow that offers nice distant views to both Czechia and Slovakia.

Holubyho chata hut is located on the eastern slope of Velká Javořina and is set in a building with original architecture from early 20th century. It's a decent place to stay overnight and definitely recommended for its hearty local cuisine.

Part 6: Králický Sněžník & Rychlebské hory

Geographically, neither the massive of Králický Sněžík nor Rychlebské hory (Golden mountains) belong the Outer Western Carpathians, however I am including this range into this broad overview for two reasons.

First, this now-known and not really visited mountain range is not far from Beskydy. And second, this is the area where I did my very first week-long (solo) hike back in summer 2008.

It was late July (2008) when I took three consecutive trains to get from the Vysočina region to the small village of Prostřední Lipka, and started to ascent the quite impressive massive of Králický Sněžník (1424m). With unlogically heavy backpack (how unprepared/over-prepared I was!), it was truly a hell of an effort to gain those 1000m vertical meters to the mountain top; both exhausted and exhilarated, I spent the first night camping somewhere in spruce woods below the ridge.

I woke up with an optimistic mood no matter how much I felt the worn body. The weather remained favourable and I did my best to conquer the 16km-long journey to Paprsek mountain hut (1010m), following the red-marked "Hřebenovka" trail. The evening consisted of building up a tent in nearby woods and subsequent food & beer meditation in the oasis of the picturesque yet a bit worn lodge.

On the third day, I continued hiking along the Czech-Polish border line, ascending Smrk mountain (1127m), going down to Sokolí skály (hut - útulna) where I grilled bacon, and then to beautiful Nýznerovské vodopády falls.

Finally, I had to gain the lost altitude and reached the border line again. In the evening, I camped somewhere near Špičák mountain (957m), having spent a pleasant evening with a young couple who set out on a similar trip like mine.

The fourth day was a fairy-tale, melancholic story. Hraničky. Mountain meadows instead of spruce woods, and only one (last) house standing.

Wikipedia entry is worth the quotation here:

The abandoned mountain village of Hraničky lies about 12 km south-west from the town Javorník and historically always belonged to the township of Nové Vilémovice. In 1785 the settlers founded the village in a broad valley under the Špičák mountain on the border as drawn by the Silesian Wars. Hraničky was initially exclusively settled by ethnic German farmers, who came to the area from the Northern Moravian districts Králíky and Staré Město.

Because of the elevation (696 m), the people of Hraničky were only able to grow barley and most of them worked as forest workers. By 1836, the village had 26 houses and farmhouses, and 281 inhabitants. Also from 1811, Hraničky had a resident teacher and by 1885 also a school.

After 1945, under the Beneš decrees most Sudeten Germans were denaturalised and forced to leave Czechoslovakia. All but four families were expelled from Hraničky by 1946 and 3 years later the village was empty. In the early 1950s, a former resident Franz Schlegel and his family all of whom successfully avoided the expulsion of Germans, moved back to one of the farmhouses and continued living there until the early 1970s. The rest of the village, however, remained unoccupied and therefore in 1959 the Czechoslovakian communist government decided to completely destroy the settlement. In the summer 1960, the Czechoslovakian Army demolished nearly every standing structure in Hraničky, including the local church and St. Joseph's chapel. The only remaining buildings were two farmhouses occupied by the Schlegel family.

Today, the picturesque, former village Hraničky is once again empty. The last still standing structure is a mountain cottage owned by a local family from Lipová-lázně.

When I reached this beautiful outpost on that hot summer day in early August 2008, there were three youngsters camping on the grounds of the lonely wooden house, having been invited by the elderly and friendly owner.

With no need to hurry and being invited too, I quickly decided to join them for the rest of the day. The old man kept talking: about planes in the sky and their itineraries, about black grouse birds, about a non-existent bus stop, about evertything that's important - about life.

Goulash was served in the afternoon and ash potatoes with grilled sausages ("špekáčky") in the evening.

Will never forget my stay here.

Day 4. Sunrise was warming and I tried to pack swiftly; saying goodbye to friends I would never see again (though we exchanged a few ICQ messages) and giving farewell to the old man. Time to move on.

I kept following the red-marked trail and subsequently visited the ruin of Rychleby castle (Reichenštejn), Čertovy kazatelny rock formation and the beautiful building of Tančírna (The Dance house) - that time in a poor state of decay (hopefully the interesting building is in a much better shape nowadays).

The stage ended in Javorník - a rather uninspiring small town where I had a dinner, 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺 (Budvar - Czech Budweisser), and camped somewhere at outskirts of the village near a small pond.

The morning was cloudy on the next day and I had to collect enough optimism and determination to put the (still heavy) backpack back on my shoulders.

From Javorník, the trail ascended all the way up to Vysoký kámen (691m) and further to Borůvková hora mountain (899m) which conveniently stood to its name ("Blueberry mountain") and offered plantations of blueberries.

From here, the task was simple: to descent all the way down to Bílá Voda, the last village on the road from Czechia to Poland, a place at the end of the map, end of the journey.

I reached the village and took a refreshing dip in its outdoor pool.

Then I went to a local restaurant (the one and only in the village) - not surprisingly, besides Holba beer the dinner options were limited to potato chips and chocolate bars. (I read recently on a blog somewhere that the restaurant has closed recently. This would mean Bílá Voda is a place without a pub. What a shame.)

I pitched my tent on a meadow near children playground.

The following morning, it was it: no further to go. Sure, my original plan was to wander to Jeseníky mountains, however there was no point doing that since I came to the end of my journey here in Bílá Voda. Morning bus to Žulová. And then home by train.

Need to go back here someday. Nostalgia and melancholy; Rychleby are all about that.

Footnotes

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FootNotes

All images are exclusive property and may not be copied, downloaded, reproduced, transmitted, manipulated or used in any way without permission of the author.

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