After a few consecutive visits of Lapland, Sweden it became clear throughout the spring 2021 that we are about to change the destination - from all the options we considered, Iceland finally came out as the clear winner thanks to its predictable covid-related entrance policy and its high adventure potential which the country keeps steadily.
With a few pals in our group who have never been to Iceland, it was obvious we have to choose a destination which will show off the land of fire and ice at its very best.
Having that in mind, it was then pretty straightforward to plan the trail across the Fjallabak nature reserve (colourful rhyolite hills) and the adjacent Vatnajökull national park (Mars-like landscape of black sand and green moss).
With the help of fellow adventurers and their online traces (Filip, Alex), we planned the journey from Landmannahellir to Langisjór, with the aim to show all the highlights and stunning beauty of the nature reserve/national park yet to keep the wandering off the beaten path i.e. to avoid overcrowded areas and points of interests of organised tourist groups.
This has been my fifth trip to Iceland over the years and yet I still haven't found out why most of the flights to Keflavík are scheduled overnight; we were flying directly from Prague with Czech Airlines, landing in Keflavík half past midnight.
Given the fact that the morning bus to Landmannalaugar leaves the BSÍ terminal at 6AM, there was not much a point trying to find an overnight accommodation; instead, we had to bear with the fact that the bus terminal only opens at 4AM and had to survive two cruel hours outside the terminal before it was mercifully opened.
Things turned for the better once we got into the terminal building, with warm breakfast and a chance of a few hours of nap time in the terminal and then during the bumpy bus ride. Having told the bus driver in advance, we were dropped off at a ford across the Rauðfossakvísl river near Landmannahellir, for the amusement of fellow bus passengers who were even taking pictures of us from bus windows :-).
The journey to Hrafntinnusker was about to be a constant elevation gain, however at least the first (otherwise rather dull) part which followed a 4WD track made the progress quite smooth.
The weather was OK, kind of a pattern we experienced most of the following days: mostly cloudy, yet without rain.
Having reached the 4WD ford across the Markarfljót river, we spiced our wandering a little bit by venturing into a small canyon and hiking along a small creek in the southern direction, finally emerging onto a vast plain called Sléttahraun with first signs of its volcanic past.
Further ahead, we were surprised by quite a large snow field with hot springs beneath; interesting area worth a short stop.
There is an ice cave with massive layers of ice on top of it near Hrafntinnusker (Íshellir við Hrafntinnusker), and we didn't hesitate to carefully venture into the area for a short exploration.
In earlier times, it can be assumed that the Torfajökull glacier had reached over here. The area contains a few hot springs and indeed forms an awesome sight with the 100m-high packed ice, yet one should be aware that these ice caves posses real danger and people have died there (as happened here back in 2006).
The last mile to Hrafntinnusker hut and campsite was straightforward. Has to be said though, I was feeling a bit uncomfortable staying in an organised campsite with quite a few people around (Hrafntinnusker is the first stop on the world-famous Laugavegurinn trail from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk), despite its picturesque setting.
In fact, we hadn't much of a choice since one cannot camp freely in the Fjallabak nature reserve and together with the notoriously overcrowded Landmannalaugar, Hrafntinnusker is the only place one may stay overnight within the boundaries of the nature reserve (without previous consultancy with park's ranger).
Nevertheless, the weather started to clear up throughout the evening - something we appreciated a lot given the fact that tomorrow we planned to enter the unique area of colourful rhyolite hills.
The morning at Hrafntinnusker was sunny albeit a bit cold due to the altitude.
With the proximity of the closest vantage point, Stöðull (1132m), we didn't hesitate much and decided to start the journey by climbing the hill, following the narrow footpath stretching its southern hillside.
Views from Stöðull were magnificent in all the directions - in the clear sunny weather, we were overlooking vast wild landscapes full of snow fields, colourful hills, glacial rivers, and mountain tops often covered by glaciers.
From the hilltop, we descended abruptly in the northern direction, soon joining the well-trodden Laugavegurinn trail towards the hot springs at Stórihver.
I recalled this place to be of an extraordinary beauty from my Laugavegurinn adventure years ago, and this was exactly the case also now, maybe apart from twenty hikers having lunch at a stream not far from the trail. Even a few sheep were grazing here in the same way as in 2013 .
We hiked on Laugavegurinn trail in the northern direction until the next trail junction below Gráskalli (1007m) where we turned left and followed a smaller footpath in the eastern direction, keeping the gained altitude and thus enjoying vast views towards Landmannalaugar and also in the opposite southern direction.
Further prominent views emerged as we reached the top of an unnamed hill (1021m) and then on Skalli (1027m). In constant sunshine, shorts and t-shirts were the clothing most of our crew had to resort to, yet continuous sweating was unavoidable anyway.
During this section, we met a few day-trippers from Landmannalaugar and also an organised group of Italian hikers – this hasn’t been our last encounter with this group.
Interestingly, we haven’t actually seen Landmannalaugar from any of these vantage points; the vast campground remained hidden behind the prominent grey cone of Bláhnúkur (945m).
Nothing could prepare us what was about to happen next – descent to the Jökulgilskvísl river in Jökulgilsbotn valley.
Retrospectively, it was not only the most amazing ridgeline we hiked on this trip, it’s fair to say it was probably the most beautiful ridgeline I’ve ever walked on.
No exaggeration here, the curvy footpath that was winding down the colourful rhyolite ridge like a long snake was absolutely special: beautiful, with fantastic views, narrow, illuminated by the afternoon sun, and requiring to carefully watch one’s steps.
Surprisingly, we even saw MTB tracks on this footpath – what an adventure this had to be biking this splendid yet dangerous trail down to the river!
Having reached Jökulgilskvísl, we first had to cross it – which wasn’t that easy as we originally thought. Mainly due to the warm day and evening time, the water level was thigh-high (melted water from glaciers), and the river current was quite swift.
Nevertheless, we finally crossed the river without major problems, having scouted the crossing point carefully.
Originally, we planned to camp outside the Fjallabak nature reserve to respect the regulation, however that was now almost impossible to do so since this would be still a few hours of exhaustive hiking across a very rugged terrain.
Having that in mind and finding a convenient camping place in the Dalbotn valley just across Jökulgilskvísl, we called it a day and camped here on a small hummock, obviously following the leave-no-trace principle (as always).
The evening in the deserted valley was serene.
Low evening light, clear water in a nearby stream, warm weather, long shades, no wind.
We got real luck during the day weather-wise, and were really thankful for it. There was no need to rush with the camping chores; we took it lazy, and enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere of this remote place in the heart of the colourful Icelandic wilderness.
We couldn’t really expect another day of cloudless sunshine, that would be rather daring. Indeed, clouds started to move in while we packed our camp, and it became completely overcast when we started hiking.
The terrain here in the area is quite rugged and it’s not that easy to choose a convenient hiking trajectory, also given the fact that our map was 1:100000 which is a bit insufficient. Luckily, there was a path to follow in our offline mapy.cz map downloaded to our phones, and after an abrupt ascent we emerged onto a small plateau above the Jökulgilskvísl river.
The footpath then followed another ridgeline of rhyolite hummocks in a similar way we experienced yesterday, now with stunning views of the Jökulgilsbotn and Þrengsli canyons.
Eventually, we reached the blue-green ridge known as Grænihryggur, an interesting geological feature of green-blue colour.
Having crossed the river here in the Sveinsgil canyon (easier exercise than yesterday), we had to gain the elevation once more (again using a marked footpath - neither shown on the map nor in our offline GPS map), finally leaving the Fjallabak nature reserve behind at a vast plateau below the northern tip of the Torfajökull glacier.
The pathless rambling here came to its end when we decided to descent through a canyon formed by the eastern tributary of Syðri–Ófæra river – retrospectively, it would be probably wiser to choose the western tributary in the Muggudalir canyon (where the footpath is marked on the paper Forlagið map) since there were a few rather steep sections here we had to negotiate with proper care.
The valley of Syðri–Ófæra was flat, green and easy to follow; we stayed on the right bank of the river here to avoid unnecessary fording.
It took us some reasonable time and effort to finally reach the long-awaited hot springs area named Strútslaug.
Seeing a few people around the pool caused some annoyance since we would naturally prefer to have the place just to ourselves, however we soon realised that these folks are just day-trippers with no intention to spend a night here at the tranquil warm oasis.
Later in the afternoon when we had just pitched our tents, another group of day-trippers arrived to enjoy the pool – and to our surprise, it was the (mostly female) Italian group of hikers we met two days ago. Has to be said the hot springs are natural with obviously no facilities around, so we had no other choice than to witness an interesting clothes-changing performance that somehow spiced our dinner .
We enjoyed the hot springs after all the day-trippers left.
The temperature in the pool was high enough to warm everybody up quite quickly, and it was really pleasant to have a warm bath after a day-long hike – something we had been looking forward to during the whole day.
There was no doubt that the landscape shall change dramatically during our fourth day on the trail.
We left the colourful Fjallabak and entered a green-black area of grass, moss, glacial rivers and black sand. The day was planned to be long, yet straightforward and reasonably easy given the relatively flat terrain.
We followed a quad-bike track that turned into a bigger 4WD route; the less fun it was to follow the former curvy dirty road, the faster were we going.
We knew we had to cross the Syðri–Ófæra river somewhere during the way to keep the optimal trajectory, and there was even a designed route/ford marked on our paper map (on the contrary to our offline map which wasn’t showing any other track besides the 4WD one).
Patience is a characteristic of kings as it’s often said, yet in our case we were unfortunately a far cry from keeping this royal virtue. The 4WD track was slightly but continuously gaining the altitude and getting more to the south, and we had to return back to the river and cross it – and impatiently did it prematurely, which implied two things.
First, we got a chance to admire the canyon-like section of Syðri–Ófæra called Ófærudalur we descended to.
Second, we had to ford the river numerous times, sometimes even walking in the middle of the river bed for hundreds of meters – couldn’t be more refreshing !
Finally, we reached a place where it was possible to get out of the river canyon on the left bank, despite it was quite a strenuous exercise.
The ascent then continued across a rugged terrain full of small depressions and a series of hummocks until we reached an interesting green-black plateau between two prominent hills of Mórauðavatnshnúkar.
With fog and low clouds rolling in and out, we continued hiking in the eastern direction until we reached another 4WD track and, interestingly enough, an overhead electrical power line.
The last section was then an easy downhill exercise towards the Strangakvísl river.
In the continuous dull weather, we pitched our tents on its right bank, and went to sleeping bags quickly – it was a long day with an unplanned adventurous river intermezzo and the continuous drizzle gave us no other option anyway.
In an overcast yet dry weather, we started to hike on the right bank of Strangakvísl, following a marked footpath we joined (there are a few day-hikes with marked footpaths here in the area of the Eldgjá canyon).
We reached the F208 road soon and crossed the river using a road bridge. To our surprise, the road turned out to be quite busy – besides a few 4WD cars, we also met a tourist bus – its sight was almost surreal in the black sand wilderness. (And once more, we were photographed by bus passengers during their brief stop near the road bridge .)
We continued hiking along the Norðari-Ófæra river upstream until we reached a small parking lot with a visitor centre booth marking the official entrance to the northern part of the Eldgjá canyon.
With a few day-trippers around, we continued hiking in the northeast direction in the bottom of the valley until we reached the impressive sight of the Ófærufoss waterfall.
The waterfall used to have a natural bridge across it, however it unfortunately collapsed back in 1993 reportedly due to excess water from the spring melting ice.
The remaining part of the canyon was then easy to negotiate except for the final part which involved a rather steep ascent of the southern hillside of Eldgjá.
Slipping black sand was the terrain to enjoy here, something like walking on a soft-sand beach with heavy backpack yet very uphill .
The final section was then an easy and gradual descent from below Gjátindur (943m) in the eastern direction across the rolling landscape of Mið-Botnar and towards the mighty glacial Skaftá river.
Having reached the secluded Skælingar hut and campsite, we decided to call it a day – the place was really beautiful with its interesting lava rock formations and worth spending a night.
(There was quite a solid mobile signal coverage just above the hut which we used for campsite reservation and payment).
Another overcast day which we expected to be quite interesting itinerary-wise.
Although there was a rough 4WD track to follow from the Skælingar hut (leading to the remote Blautulón lake), we planned to use it only part of the way to gain the altitude and then to leave it, expecting a day full of wilderness pathless rambling - our offline GPS map wasn't showing any footpath.
(Writing this blogpost and looking at the new Atlaskort 15 - Veiðivötn map, there is a clear footpath shown which we actually followed not previously knowing it does exist.)
Having hiked an hour or so we finally reached the place where we aimed to leave the 4WD track (marked as scenic viewpoint on our offline GPS map).
With dense fog higher in the hills, the orientation exercise seemed to be quite tricky given the rugged terrain, yet to our surprise and relief we found a marked footpath leading west of Uxatindar (864m) through the Uxatindagljúfur canyon to a nameless lake (532m) at the Skaftá river.
Having forded a tributary of Skaftá, we then followed the marked trail along the glacial river upstream across a Mars-like landscape full of black sand, occasional lichens and small wildflowers.
There was an interesting powerful cataract we paid a visit to via a short detour - here we realised that crossing Skaftá would be out of question, it's just too powerful and big.
Easy hiking then continued on a well-trodden footpath stretching the river hillside, with fine views of the glacial watercourse.
We camped on a small plateau above the Sveinstindur hut we reached in the afternoon.
In fact, there weren’t many other overnight choices since from around lunch time we haven’t crossed any reliable water source (putting aside brown glacial Skaftá water with sediments).
Anyway, we were satisfied with today's progress since it became clear we are going to reach Langisjór lake one day earlier than originally planned.
Not really surprising, another overcast day. This time with occasional drizzle and fog/low clouds in higher altitudes.
It’s fair to say we had been missing sun during the past few days, despite it wasn’t raining. On longer trails such as this one, sun brings optimism and positive mood, and helps to deal with all the obstacles and annoyances that hikers encounter during their adventures.
From the Sveinstindur hut, the footpath ascended in a zig-zag way towards the ridge that was separating us from Langisjór lake. In fact, we expected to reach the lake already around lunch time since it wasn’t really far.
Despite the cloudy weather with very low visibility, we decided to climb Sveinstindur (1089m) hoping for the weather to improve.
Having left our backpacks on the trail at the side track to the peak, it wasn’t difficult to reach the top – unfortunately only to enjoy the accumulated fog that obscured views in all the directions (which otherwise had to be really magical).
Nevertheless, the magical moments came soon afterwards during the descent to Langisjór lake; in a few brief moments, the low clouds disappeared, and the awesome sight of Langisjór surrounded by high ridges and glaciers at its end appeared in full beauty.
We pitched our tents on the barren terrain at Langisjór campsite – just stones and black sand, yet the location possessed some magic also thanks to the beautiful wooden visitor shelter which represents modern architecture that fits perfectly into the harsh and wild environment.
We expected the area to be free of any human souls, yet the reality was different – also due to the weekend time the place was full of (mostly) Icelandic day-trippers (around ten typical 4WD trucks with very high clearance and big tires).
During the twilight, the place got yet another magic; afternoon drizzle came to its end, clouds went higher, and the wind stopped blowing.
I did a short walk around just to enjoy this magic place once more and put it permanently into my memory.
It was around 10AM when two big offroad vehicles appeared on the horizon to pick us up – I think it was a rather new Toyota Hilux and an old Nissan Patrol (provided by FG Private Tours and driven by two friendly Icelandic folks working for the company).
Not surprisingly, it cost us a fortune to arrange such a transport back to Reykjavík, but in fact we hadn’t any other option: hiking back to Landmannalaugar was out of question due to lack of time (and we were afraid this would be just a long and boring road-walk exercise anyway), and the bus option, still feasible couple of years ago, doesn’t exist anymore (the bus connection between Landmannalaugar and Skaftafell, with the bus having stop at Eldgjá, ceased its operation back in 2018).
We had one and half spare days in Reykjavík; a day more than we originally anticipated. Although considering the idea of a day-trip to the active Fagradalsfjall volcano, we decided not to go for that and to enjoy Reykjavík instead – simply, we have had enough of wilderness, and the friendly (albeit expensive) city has a lot to offer, both to newcomers and returning visitors.
Highlights: the church (Hallgrímskirkja) with Leif Erikson statue in front of it, 12 Tónar music shop (I finally bought the iconic Sigur Rós () album on LP), cosy cafés, Harpa concert hall, and – perhaps inevitably – beer, no matter its obscene prices in Iceland. BrewDog and KEX hostel were our choices for the evenings, given their generous beer playlist and decent food options they offer.
Personally, Iceland has become a familiar place over the years, and when opportunity arises, I feel I’m about to go again.
The country has its own subtle magic and charm, slow pace of live, easy-going locals, and, last but not least, stunning landscape the island is famous for.
Beating the crowds has been the strategy over the years that proved to be the most rewarding one for us. During the journey from Langisjór back to Reykjavík, we made brief stops at Skógafoss and Selfajdnesjofss waterfalls – only to confirm that to share these Instagram places with tourist herds is not really appealing (though hot dogs sold at the small kiosk at Selfajdnesjofss were to die for after a week-long dried meals diet).
Luckily enough, there are still places that one may enjoy alone rather than with tens of others; become part of the wild nature, slow down significantly, feel the remoteness, and rely just on himself/herself and the companions.
This trip confirmed to me that one may experience these desired feelings even in the heart of the Fjallabak nature reserve – there is so much more than just the Laugavegurinn trail and Landmannalaugar (and don’t take me wrong, loved the hot springs there and hot coffee from the bus shop! ).
© 2026 Northern Adventures
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