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Hiking Madeira

The island of eternal spring on foot

By Northern Adventures

Introduction

(sat Oct 24th - SUN Nov 1st, 2009)

Back in 2009, our group of three left our Czech homeland for the island of Madeira to experience its never-ending spring moods, lush greenery, high mountains, sea waves, and a salt wind blowing from the Atlantic.

Our plan was straightforward: to trek during the days and enjoy Madeiran food specialties and wine during the evenings and nights.

We made the most of every minute of our trip. We covered most of the interesting levada walks, as well as a couple of other beautiful day hikes. Sometimes we almost got lost in the white clouds that rose from the deep valleys.

We enjoyed local espadas and espetadas . Our evenings usually started with a few beers after trekking in the sun and ended with a few bottles of red wine accompanied by olives late into the night.

Back then, Madeira seemed not yet plundered by the tourist industry or overcrowded by an endless stream of visitors. The villages located high up in the mountains still breathed the way of life that had persisted there for centuries.

Madeira offers wonderful opportunities for hiking, sunny, yet sometimes rapidly changing weather, and relaxed moods; it’s a beautiful and convenient place for avid hikers who like to relax, too.

The Routes

The walks we enjoyed during our week-long October stay were the following:

Ponta de São Lourenço
Pico de Ariero to Pico Ruivo
Vereda da Trompica - around Boca da Corrida
Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela
Levada do Caldeirão Verde
Rabaçal levada to 25 Fontes
Pico Ruivo do Paúl da Serra

Logistically, we stayed in Arco da Calheta - a pretty village and a real Madeiran community with small shops, bakers, fruit shops, mini markets and a village square with cafes, bars and a church.

We booked a private accommodation. Its British owner was renting out part of his property, enjoying watching Premier league, eating sea food and drinking beer & wine - i.e. living his extraordinary pensioned life one is often dreaming of...

1) Ponta de São Lourenço

Ponta de São Lourenço (Portuguese for the "Point of Saint Lawrence") is the easternmost point of the island of Madeira.

Its terrain is made up of colorful rocks and herbaceous vegetation, and since 1982, the headland has been a nature reserve.

The eastern part of Madeira is quite barren, with eroded pyroclastic rocks and basalt dykes.

The well-trodden path that stretches across the peninsula offers numerous beautiful viewpoints and winds all the way to the easternmost lookout, from which the Farol da Ponta de São Lourenço lighthouse can be seen.

There is no shade throughout the journey, so carrying plenty of water in your backpack is strongly recommended in sunny weather.

This hike is quite exceptional compared to other Madeiran hikes. It’s a coastal trek across barren terrain with little greenery, featuring clear signs of the island's volcanic past.

Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo

This mountainous hike is a classic and arguably the most spectacular day walk in Madeira.

Start early! This is a rule you should strictly follow, as otherwise, you may find yourself walking through thick fog that accumulates throughout the day, leaving you with nothing to see due to the persistent whiteout.

And you definitely want a clear view because there’s so much to take in.

So, skip that extra bottle of wine in the evening, get to bed early, and be a brave early bird in the morning. It really pays off.

This beautiful walk involves a few tunnels and some steep ascents and descents, offering fabulous views of Madeira's central mountains.

What we really liked is that the hike is partly circular, with two paths for a portion of the journey.

The official trail map shows two routes from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo: the west trail and the east trail. The east trail is longer but easier, as it passes along Pico das Torres, Madeira’s second-highest peak. The west trail is newer and shorter but slightly more challenging, with steep stairs to climb. This path is carved into Pico das Torres.

Some people find parts of the hike scary, but since it’s well-maintained and equipped with a fence, it’s manageable even for those with a fear of heights.

Looking at the pictures now, I realize just how beautiful this walk truly is. It’s a stunning mountainous hike that connects two of Madeira’s highest peaks with a skillfully crafted trail across very rugged terrain.

Highly recommended. And once again: get up early !

Vereda da Trompica - around Boca da Corrida

Not sure how we found this hiking loop, but it was definitely one of the least visited hikes we tackled during our week-long hiking holiday. Aside from a small group of French hikers, we didn’t encounter anyone on this walk.

It was a rural adventure, with cows as our frequent companions. Unsurprisingly, there were also some mesmerizing views. Looking at the photographs now while writing this trip report, I must say that the extremely rugged Madeiran landscape truly offers spectacular scenery, with stunning viewpoints scattered throughout.

Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela

One of the lesser-known levada walks that's easy to follow and surrounded by beautiful woods is the Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela, located near Porto Moniz in the northwestern part of the island.

It's an out-and-back type of walk, which might be the only aspect that some find less interesting. Otherwise, it's a very pleasant hike through deep laurel forest and features a few lovely viewpoints. As a bonus, there may not be many people around; in fact, we didn’t encounter anyone during our walk.

There are a few wet sections of this levada that feature intense greenery and canyon-like rock walls covered in moss and other moisture-loving vegetation.

Levada do Caldeirão Verde

Now let’s explore arguably the most impressive levada walk, the famous Levada do Caldeirão Verde, which can be extended to the intriguingly named Caldeirão do Inferno.

This levada offers everything in one package: steep walls above a deep gorge, stunning views, lush greenery, dense woods, small waterfalls, and a few tunnels to pass through (don’t forget a torch).

On the downside, it’s an out-and-back hike, and, not surprisingly, it’s quite popular. Early birds may find some solitude, which is otherwise hard to come by throughout the day.

The name of this levada walk says it all: Caldeirão Verde translates to "green caldron".

The walk starts (and ends) in the lush, tropical emerald green rainforest of Queimadas near Santana. It meanders along the south side of the deep valley of the São Jorge brook, often on a narrow path that tends to be wet (and slippery) due to persistent humidity.

Compared to other levada walks, I wouldn’t hesitate to call this one the essential Madeiran levada hike, as it truly encompasses everything one could hope for.

Rabaçal levada to 25 Fontes

Starting from Rabaçal, this short yet beautiful levada walk winds along the slope of a lush green valley and ultimately leads to a stunning 30-meter-high waterfall. The waterfall consists of several streams cascading vertically down the mountainside, giving rise to the name "25 Natural Springs."

This was actually our first walk on Madeira and served as a fine introduction to what levada walks have to offer nature-loving hikers.

Paúl da Serra

Paul da Serra is the largest and most extensive plateau on Madeira, with an average altitude of about 1,500 meters.

Its highest point is Pico do Paul, which rises to 1,640 meters and offers panoramic views of the entire plateau. On clear days, you can see both the south and north coasts.

Paul da Serra is also considered the most important area for the island's groundwater recharge. Its flat terrain facilitates the infiltration of a significant portion of the island’s high annual rainfall, while slowing the runoff towards the sea.

Cabo Girão

About 3 kilometers west of Câmara de Lobos, Madeira's highest sea cliffs, Cabo Girão, rise 580 meters, towering over the Atlantic's sapphire expanse.

Cabo Girão means "Cape of Return"—in the 15th century, Captain João Gonçalves Zarco is said to have turned his ship around here during his first reconnaissance of the coast.

It’s definitely a tourist spot, but avoiding the souvenir stalls and carefully choosing either the morning or evening to visit can make the experience more enjoyable. The views from the top of the cliffs are nothing short of spectacular.

Jardim do Mar

Jardim do Mar (Portuguese for "Garden of the Sea") is a civil parish in the western part of the municipality of Calheta. Its name originates from the transition between steep, unvegetated slopes and a charming seaside resort that was once covered with a blanket of wildflowers.

Surrounded by the sea and nestled among the mountains, this parish retains the tranquility of bygone days, as evidenced by its old narrow streets and low-level houses with various shapes of chimneys.

The village remains a laid-back spot ideal for a short stroll, enjoying a coffee or a beer while gazing at the ocean, or—preferably—renting a house for a few days and letting time drift by.

Achadas da Cruz & Porto Moniz

These hamlets in the northwest of Madeira are both worth a visit. Porto Moniz is a tranquil village known for its natural sea pools among the rocks, perfect for a refreshing swim. Achadas da Cruz, or more accurately Fajã da Quebrada Nova, is another charming Madeiran hamlet situated below a spectacular cliff. It is accessible via a cable car from the cliff towering above this picturesque seaside settlement.

Ribeira Brava & Lugar de Baixo

Lugar de Baixo became our go-to spot for evening dinners. Recommended by a friend, we became regulars at the local Cantinho do Lugar de Baixo restaurant.those days, with neither Trip Advisor nor Foursquare, we were not tempted to search for other places being satisfied with hearty barbecue espetadas served here which were suitably washed down with a few beers and followed by a bottle or two of red wine.

Pico Ruivo do Paúl da Serra

Pico Ruivo do Paúl rises above the north face of the Paúl da Serra plateau, offering expansive views down towards the coast 1,600 meters below. In particular, the valley of São Vicente draws attention with its dramatic scenery.

To the east, Madeira’s central range dominates the horizon, with peaks such as Ruivo, Casado, das Torres, Areeiro, and Grande creating a stunning, rugged panorama. To the south, the Paúl da Serra plateau appears as an endless sea of bushes and grassland.

Funchal

Frankly, we aimed to spend as little time as possible in Funchal, preferring more peaceful and tranquil locations. However, an evening stroll along Funchal’s harbor revealed some of the sea magic that these small harbors often provide.

Câmara de Lobos

Câmara de Lobos is a municipality, parish, and town on the south-central coast of Madeira, often noted in guidebooks for its connection to Winston Churchill.

Churchill first visited Madeira on October 17, 1899, while sailing on the Dunottar Castle en route to South Africa as a newspaper correspondent covering the Boer War.

He would not return to the island for another fifty years, but in the meantime, he enjoyed Madeira wine and once remarked while drinking a vintage from the late 1700s, "My God, do you realize this Madeira was made when Marie Antoinette was still alive?"

In Câmara de Lobos, Churchill was known to paint. The owners of the “Churchill Restaurante” have capitalized on this connection by affixing a plaque on the wall to show exactly where he worked.

Arco da Calheta

The parish of Arco da Calheta is bordered to the north and west by the parish of Calheta and to the east by the municipality of Ponta do Sol, with its southern border facing the Atlantic Ocean.

Buildings are situated in the amphitheater-shaped valley, as well as on the escarpments overlooking the community, alongside Calheta (in Calhau Grande) and Madalena do Mar (Achada de Santo Antão).

This was where we stayed during our week-long hiking holiday. We rented a small house from a friendly British owner and enjoyed its convenient location away from the typical tourist spots.

Afterword

As I reviewed the photographs from our Madeira trip while writing this blog post, I was quickly reminded of how truly beautiful the island is. It’s extremely rugged, with pleasant—not hot—weather, delicious local cuisine, and numerous walking opportunities.

Madeira remains a charming destination that preserves its local spirit and rural character.

There’s certainly potential for more advanced walks or multi-day hiking trips for those interested in such adventures. Fifteen years ago, we took a more relaxed approach and thoroughly enjoyed our stay in this Portuguese outpost.

Footnotes

All images are exclusive property and may not be copied, downloaded, reproduced, manipulated or used in any way without permission of the photographer (tomas.zrna@gmail.com).

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FootNotes

All images are exclusive property and may not be copied, downloaded, reproduced, manipulated or used in any way without permission of the photographer (tomas.zrna@gmail.com).

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