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Overland Track

Mysterious adventure on & around Tassie's classics

By Northern Adventures

May 8^th, 2015

Introduction

(Sun May 3RD - Sat May 9TH, 2015)

The Overland Track is one of Australia’s most famous bush treks, situated in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park in Tasmania.

Officially, the track runs for 65 km from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair. However, many choose to hike along Lake St Clair as a natural extension, bringing the total length to 82 km. The track winds through diverse terrain, ranging from sheer mountains and temperate rainforests to wild rivers and alpine plains, all within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. It is world-renowned for its pristine environment and beauty. The stunning scenery and the physical challenge of the Overland Track have solidified its reputation as one of the great wilderness bushwalks, both nationally and internationally.

Europeans first explored Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair in the 1820s, and prospectors and hunters continued to explore the area well into the 20th century. It was not until 1931 that fur trapper Bert Nichols blazed the Overland Track, and by 1935, it was consolidated and used by independent walking parties.

The landscape was carved by glaciers during the last ice age, and the prominent mountains are composed of dolerite columns. The climate is generally unstable, with temperatures ranging from hot (over 35°C) in summer to below zero in winter. Snow can fall at any time and is common during winter, especially on the Cradle Mountain Plateau and around Mount Ossa. Rain is also very common, sometimes torrential, though it often settles into days of drizzle.

I did the trek solo in May, which is autumn in Tasmania, and experienced it all: sunshine, rain, lots of snow, and sunshine again. It was a mysterious adventure on the opposite side of the Earth.

Day 1: From Ronny Creek To Waterfall Valley

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It is not a straightforward and easy journey to reach the Overland Track’s trailhead.

I took a bus from Hobart to Launceston, and after spending a night there (after a few tasty ales), I finally arrived at the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre shortly before lunchtime. From there, a regular shuttle bus took me to a place called Ronny Creek, where the famous bushwalk begins.

It was partly cloudy as I set out on the trail across buttongrass moorlands and alpine meadows, often walking on wooden walkboards that make hiking much easier, especially in wet conditions and with a heavy backpack.

May marks the autumn season in Tasmania.

The famous Fagus trees, Tasmania’s deciduous beech, were just about to lose their golden leaves in the higher elevations along the trail. In May, one still needs a permit to hike the Overland Track; however, the trail is far from busy, with only four other hikers starting their journey to Lake St. Clair on the same day as I did.

It was a gentle climb to Crater Lake, followed by a steeper ascent to Marion’s Lookout—everything in fine autumn weather suitable for hiking.

I was quite lucky at Marion’s Lookout in terms of the weather; the views were perfect in all directions, revealing numerous peaks, valleys, lakes, and smaller tarns.

I spent some time at the lookout, enjoying the atmosphere and occasional sunshine. Many weekend day-trippers occupied the vista here, which was soon about to change further along the trail.

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The trail led across alpine meadows to the small Kitchen Hut, where I enjoyed lunch before quickly continuing in the direction of Waterfall Valley.

Cradle Mountain was hidden in clouds, so the ascent was out of the question. Still, I caught glimpses of the spectacular peak when the clouds parted for a few brief moments.

On the other side, lovely views into deep valleys revealed different types of vegetation, which became one of the most interesting aspects of the trail for me. I noticed various types of plants, flowers, and forest types that were quite different from what I had experienced in the deep north of Europe.

It was already late evening when I started the descent to Waterfall Valley, having enjoyed some nice views and the sunset light at the plateau.

Barn Bluff was mostly hidden in the clouds, and it was too late to climb it anyway; I had planned that for the next morning.

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In Waterfall Valley, I decided to forgo the comfort of the new hut and stayed in the old wooden cabin (without a heater).

Here, a friendly and courageous Tasmanian pademelon (a type of wallaby) kept me company during twilight at the hut.

Day 2: From Waterfall Valley to Old Pelion

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I woke up very early and got up quickly, only to discover that low clouds were occupying the valley, making the climb up Barn Bluff less enticing.

Instead, I opted for a longer hiking day, aiming for the (Old) Pelion Hut as my overnight stay.

Hiking before and shortly after sunrise was a magical experience, especially with the low, moving clouds that created a mysterious mood in the landscape.

I made a short side trip to Lake Will as well, and it was a true fairy-tale experience.

Here, I encountered the best weather on the trail—blue skies, morning sunlight, and perfect views of the surrounding autumn landscape. There is even a nice sandy beach at the lake that is surely tempting enough for a swim on warmer summer days.

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From Lake Will and back on the main track, the journey continued along Lake Holmes to Lake Windermere, another tranquil and picture-postcard spot on the trail.

The path crossed a mountain plateau, offering expansive views both to the east and west of the tarn-studded alpine moors.

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Windermere Hut was located just beyond the lake, at the edge of a myrtle forest.

I had lunch there and met a small wombat right at the hut—another interesting creature I saw for the first time in my life.

Then I continued hiking in the southeast direction, striding across a heathland and moorland landscape. I also made a short side trip to the spectacular Forth Valley Lookout to take in the views of this deep and dramatic valley.

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Back on the main track, the trail passed through Pine Forest Moor and continued through buttongrass moorlands before crossing Pelion Creek.

It was a gradual descent all the way through myrtle-beech rainforest to Frog Flats—the lowest section of the Overland Track (730 m above sea level). I must say, it was quite a muddy endeavor, even though it had not rained in the past few days.

From Frog Flats, it was a gradual walk up through more rainforest before breaking out into the open eucalypt forest on the edge of Pelion Plains. It was already twilight, and the day had been very long so far—more than 25 kilometers.

Instead of Pelion Hut, I opted for the Old Pelion Cabin, aiming to enjoy solitary evenings in the old wooden huts. I can't really recommend this choice, as the hut is meant for overnight stays only in case of emergency.

It started to rain during the night, just as the weather forecast had predicted. The question on my mind was different: would there be some snow as well? That was in the forecast too...

Day 3: From Old Pelion to Du Cane Hut

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It rained the entire morning, and I had to put on my raincoat (poncho).

With a large backpack and no fellow hikers around, it was a bit tricky to put the raincoat on over both my body and the backpack. It’s a funny thing to do!

The trail ascended steadily through rainforest, initially following alongside Douglas Creek.

After a few hours, I finally emerged from the forest onto Pelion Gap—the exposed alpine plateau between Mt Pelion East and Mt Ossa.

Fortunately, it ceased to rain here, and I was able to see at least something: the silhouettes of the peaks, all set in a misty and mysterious atmosphere during brief moments between showers.

Naturally, climbing any of the mountains would have been pointless, so I continued hiking toward Kia Ora Hut, enjoying a gradual descent through beautiful Pinestone Valley with magnificent views of Cathedral Mountain on the left.

The track passed through buttongrass, but soon I immersed myself in rainforest, skirting the lower slopes of Castle Crag. After some time, I finally broke out of the forest into a small clearing with Du Cane Hut, built in 1910 by Paddy Hartnett, a snarer, miner, and bushman.

I stayed here overnight; it was a mysterious and somewhat scary place, very windy and cold. At least I got a sense of how life must have been here in the old days…

During twilight, the rain transformed into snowfall. What would come next? The night was long and cold…

Day 4: From Du Cane to Pine Valley

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This day turned out to be the wettest and coldest of all the days spent on the trail.

From drizzling to downpours to snowfall, everything was part of today’s weather menu. Still, I visited both D’Alton and Fergusson Falls, even though it was a challenge to access them, as small forest streams had turned into small rivers—I had to jump across one of them.

Back on the main track, I swung west and began a gradual climb to Du Cane Gap—the saddle between the Traveller Range and the Du Cane Range. It was a snowy scene here, and the landscape took on yet another look and mood.

After lunch at Bert Nichols Hut, I quickly continued toward Pine Valley—a side trail I didn’t want to miss, no matter what the weather.

It was a wet, cold, and snowy walk through moorland, eucalypt forest, and then rainforest to reach the hut.

The moorland I was crossing had turned into a large river, and at times I was hiking on the walkboards that were completely underwater, with the water reaching up to my knees.

Day 5: Exploring the snowy Labyrinth

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I woke up to a winter wonderland, a snowy paradise in the deep woods.

It was amazing—just one night, and twenty centimeters of fresh snow lay everywhere. I explored the beautiful Cephissus Falls and then set out on the small path toward the Labyrinth, a high-altitude plateau among the peaks of the Du Cane Range.

Even without the heavy backpack, it was a challenging trip—a continuous climb on a narrow path through deep snow.

On the plateau, at the beginning of the Labyrinth, blizzard-like conditions created yet another winter experience.

After some time, the weather settled down a bit, and I was treated to incredible and unforgettable views of the surrounding snow-covered peaks and plains.

Magical indeed, but also tricky. Being alone, I didn’t want to venture further into the Labyrinth in such winter conditions and rapidly changing weather; after a while, I started to walk back to Pine Valley.

In just ten minutes, my track and footsteps in the snow were almost gone due to the blowing wind!

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The evening in Pine Valley Hut was as comfortable as the previous one—the coal heater has a magical power, and I really enjoyed sitting close to the fireplace while drinking some rum. :-)

I only had one question on my mind: would I be able to cross the meadows back to the main track, given the water levels? That was far from certain…

Day 6: From Pine Valley to Echo Point

The temperature increased throughout the night, and a heavy thaw began.

Not wanting to speculate, I set out on the trail, aiming to quickly reach the main track. Walking through the deep forest among those magnificent redwood trees, with snow lying on the ground, was truly a beautiful endeavor.

Crossing the meadows and moorlands back to the Overland Track was a bit easier than on the way to the valley, but I still had to put on my Crocs and ford a bit of water.

Close to Narcissus Bay, a beautiful rainbow appeared, almost like a welcome sign for the lonely wanderer.

I had a quick lunch at Narcissus Hut, and after that, I continued hiking along Lake St. Clair toward Echo Point.

It was a beautiful walk through the deep rainforest; a fairy-tale forest indeed.

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The hut is a small, cozy place, and with a coal heater, it's arguably the best spot along the Overland Track to spend a night.

My last night in the wild was solitary, like all the others, and I was thankful for that.

These solitary moments were an essential part of the journey. In the logbook, there was a lengthy note from one of the previous visitors—someone like me, I would say, as my feelings were no different from theirs.

Day 7: From Echo Point to Cynthia Bay

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The last day.

Nice patches of red and orange played in the skies as the day was about to dawn.

The wind was blowing over the lake, and the wooden pier seemed like a starting point for a voyage to Mordor—the clouds were dark and hanging low.

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The last day on the trail consisted of the final few hours of walking through rainforest, and then, as I approached Cynthia Bay, through eucalypt forest and tall ferns.

At Cynthia Bay, sunbeams and blue skies created a summer atmosphere—don't be fooled, though; it was quite chilly, so no swimming this time! :-)

I have to admit that I was quite moved seeing the end of the trail and its description on the “memorial.”

For me, the most interesting aspect of the journey was that the fauna and flora were completely different from what I had seen anywhere else on my hiking trips.

And then there was the weather—so much snow! In just a week, the weather changed completely: from sun to rain, from rain to snow, and then back to sunny weather again.

It is a special track, and I was truly thankful for the chance to enjoy it, so far from Europe!

Appendix

Having realized I don’t have a list of my trekking gear I usually take on longer trips, this is an attempt to create one - may be useful for others as well.

SLEEP

Tent. Lightweight, durable, waterproof. Currently use MSR’s Hubba Hubba HP. Actually prefer 3-person tent to 2-person thanks to more interior space for two people travelling.

Sleeping bag including a Waterproof bag; sleeping bag must not get wet. Currently use SirJoseph’s Koteka II 850.

(Air) mattress. Should be high enough to ensure sleeping comfort, yet easily to be packed (space-saving) and lightweight. Do use one of the older Term-a-Rest Prolite products that has been working perfectly for me for years. More recently, I also bought a more lightweight Therm-a-Rest NeoAir.

HIKE

Trekking boots are essential. Do use Gore-Tex & Vibram equipped pair of old Garmont Meindl Vakuum GTX boots which performed just OK despite the need of repair after the South Greenland trip. Lesson learned - it is not a wise idea to dry the boots too close to a fireplace - the protection gum may easily unglue from the boot. It is far better to hang them up and let the warm air to flow inside them. More recently, I also opted for Hoka Anacapa (both Mid and Low versions).

Light small backpack that weights close to nothing and may be easily used for day trips. Do have Tatonka Superlight Sea to Summit Daypack.

Trekking pole. I only use one pole, not a pair, (Leki Black Diamond Trail), however find it quite essential when hiking with heavy backpack.

Crocs. A Classic type of Crocs is both lightweight and durable, and is perfect for river crossings and hut/evening times after a long trekking day.

Drinking bottle. Always go with a SIGG Nalgene bottle of 1,5l size.

Mosquito net head cover. For spring/summer times in the areas of mosquitoes and midges. Those insects can be so irritating!

CLOTHING

Trekking trousers. Not a fan of Gore-Tex, I use Fjällräven Nils trousers and really like the material and its fit.

Light trousers or shorts. Very lightweight, for peaceful evenings in the campsite.

Jacket. Not opting for a Gore-Tex one, I have been using 66°North Skálafell - Rain Jacket for couple of years and it performs OK though it's far from being waterproof. More recently, I bought Sir Joseph's Trisul Light jacket.

Light down jacket. Very lightweight and easy to pack, useful for chilly evenings in the campsite as additional warming layer. Using 66°North Vatnajökull 800 down jacket and more recently, Mountain Equipment Baltoro Jacket.

Fleece / Merino hooded jacket / sweater. A suitable middle layer for colder times.

Raincoat (poncho). For rainy times on the trail; should be designed in the way that it also covers the backpack, not only the (human) body. More ecently, I do not take raincoats on my trips any more considering waterproof backpack and rain jacket.

Socks. Do usually use 4 3 pairs; two for trekking, one for evening time/sleeping bag, and another pair as spare ones. Merino wool seems to be perfect material since the socks dry fast and do not smell bad (or too much bad).

Long-sleeve shirts. Do usually use 2-3 pairs; one for hiking, another for a case of being completely wet (sweating) and/or evening time. The last one may be for the sleeping bag time only. Merino wool is again a perfect material for me.

Boxer shorts. 2 pairs are enough, usually changing for day/night use. Merino wool again works here perfectly.

Long underwear. Long johns are useful inside the sleeping as well as for chilly times on the trail/in the campsite (under light trousers or shorts).

Beanie & Hiking Head Scarf. Have a stylish handmade beanie bought in Bolivia :-).

Gloves. For cold times.

Blanket. Most underrated part of trekking equipment; would never go anywhere without one! Exchanged for Therm-a-Rest Camping Seat.

FOOD

Grape sugar (in plastic wrapping). Useful as extra portion of energy. Paper wrapping not suitable since it is not water resistant.

Fruit & nut bars. After some experiments, currently opting for fruit & nuts only bars like Raw Bite, Lifebar or Chimpanzee. Three Two One pieces a day is the optimal amount for me.

Effervescent multivitamins and ionic drinks. Usually go for Additiva’s Mango or Orange combined with Isostar tablets.

Tea. Tea bags; two bags per day.

Coffee. All-in-one; one per day. Aeropress is the way to go for true coffee lovers or, in a less complicated way, GSI Ultralight Java Drip that may be easily attached to a mug.

Breakfast food. Oatmeal with dried cranberries and nuts.

Dehydrated trekking food. This is the main meal of the day i.e. dinner. Usually opting for Travellunch which offers best price/quality/taste ratio IMO. Was quite disappointed with Mountain House (their Sweet & Sour Chicken was really horrible). In the past, I also tried Trek‘n Eat meals that were good though more expensive than Travellunch. More recently, Lyo Food seems to be the winner for me, occasionally also splurging into Norwegian Real Turmat food.

Bread. Traditional sourdough bread that easily lasts for more than a week is essential. Using it for lunch.

Cheese, Sausage, Prosciutto, Bacon. Go for traditional products that contain lot of meat.

Garlic. For seasoning trekking food and some natural antibiotics.

COOKING & EATING

Sponge. Though not necessary, makes washing up a cup or a spoon easier.

Set of plastic bags. At least one spare needed - as a portable waste bin.

Knife. Folding knife (with a corkscrew).

Spoon. Folding spoon (to be stored in a cup together with a sponge).

Cup. For tea, coffee and also breakfast.

Gas stove. Have recently tried MSR’s WindBoiler and have to say it performs just perfectly.

Gas canister(s). In an amount that is sufficient; this may be sometimes tricky to be calculated.

Lighter and Safety matches.

Garbage bag. Or two.

GADGETS

Mobile phone including Waterproof case and Map of the area for GPS usage. Currently use iPhone with Endomondo Strava app to track the route. Waterproof case is very useful in case of bad weather.

Portable charger. Anker Astro E4 lasts 8-10 days while charging my iPhone fully each night.

Charging cable for the mobile phone; connects to USB port of the portable charger.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Digital SLR camera. Here I do not compromise though it means much heavier equipment. I have been using Pentax DSLR cameras for years, currently using Pentax K-3 Sony Alpha A7 Mark IV with Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS lense.

Wide-angle lens. Best for landscape shooting, especially from high-elevation viewpoints.

Telephoto lens. Apart from portraits and wildlife shooting, they are useful for landscape shooting too.

Tripod. Although tried carrying heavy and sturdy tripod on one of the trails, currently prefer Joby’s Gorillapod Focus which is far much lighter and still very useful.

Filters and Filter holder. Having experimented with range of filters, I currently only go with Lee’s 0.6 HD Grad (helping with over-exposed sky) and another ND filter (+6 stop) for waterfalls shooting.

Batteries. Usually go with a pair of spare batteries.

HYGIENE & HEALTH

First aid-kit. Usually, I only go with a set of adhesive bandage for my foot.

Toilet paper.

Paper tissues. 3 packs usually do the job.

Toothbrush and Toothpaste.

Hygienic napkins and soap.

Outdoor towel. Not really pleasant, however dries quickly.

Sun lotion. Essential for those with shorter hair :-).

ACCESSORIES

Whistle. In a foggy weather and real white-outs, this may be essential instrument to avoid getting lost from the others (or to find the lost one).

Passport/ID including Waterproof case.

Washing line. A clothes line for clothes drying. May be used together with trekking poles.

Pen.

Papers. Or a small notebook.

Peg. Useful for both clothes drying and trekking food preparation (closes trekking food bags tightly).

Compass. Frankly, I have never used it. However, one never knows…

Duct tape. “Silver tape” or its equivalent, in a smaller size.

Glasses case with a Cleaning cloth.

Newspapers. May help you well in case of a need for a fire in an old-fashioned fireplace and may contain some interesting information as well :-).

Seating pad. May be replaced by either backpack itself or a blanket, however plastic seating pad may be very useful.

Fire starters. In case of huts with wood/coal heaters, fire starter squares may be quite useful, especially when there is no birch wood (bark) around.

Wallet. With both (local) money and credit card(s).

Keys. Have to go home after the trek :-).

Candles. May save some battery life of the headlamp and also help to create cosy atmosphere inside the hut.

Headlamp. Essential for long dark nights. Be sure it is fully charged before setting out!

FOR SPECIAL TIMES

Bottle of Scotch or Rum. There has to be something special to look forward to during long hiking days, at least for me. Some re-fill plastic bottles; however I prefer to remain in style i.e. in glass. getting older, I tend to do the same. Last moments of a day in a warm sleeping bag deserve something special :-).

Footnotes

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FootNotes

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