In September 2017, we spent 11 days of hiking and packrafting in the unspoiled wilderness of southern Greenland between the magnificent Tasermiut fjord and the remote settlement of Aappilattoq, searching for beautiful landscapes, moods of solitude, and enjoying a true deep north adventure.
Certainly, we were far from being the first to cross these lands, however we hadn't met anyone during our 10-days hike across the pathless terrain; we just saw a few footsteps of previous adventurers in the sand.
No paths, no huts, no GSM signal, no means of civilization; this is a harsh northern landscape that requires enough stamina, experience, mental strength and patience to be crossed over. For those who don't retreat, however, the experience is very rewarding: a unique mix of isolation, exploration and adventure.
This kind of trip requires proper preparation and we were thankful to find enough resources online and helpful fellow adventurers; concretely, Joery Truyen's epic weeks-long adventure, similar epic journey of Willem Vandoorne, and very helpful advices were of Purple Peak Adventures and by Alex Nail.
It was tough. And beautiful.
It was not easy to reach this very remote corner of the world, especially since we (yet again) opted for the beginning of autumn for this trip i.e. after-season time.
We took an early morning flight from Prague to Copenhagen and then continued with Air Greenland's flight to Narsarsuaq (the last direct flight this season). From Narsarsuaq, we enjoyed Disko Line's 5-hours boat trip to Nanortalik via Qaqortoq.
The reasons for choosing the first half of September were simple and straightforward: less people around (though one cannot really talk about crowds in Greenland), higher chances for witnessing northern lights, first autumn colours, and, most importantly, less or even none mosquitoes and midges this region is notoriously infamous for.
In the picturesque village of Nanortalik, we were met by the friendly and very helpful Niels of Nanortalik Tourism who was providing us all the necessary logistics and local advice, including the outbound journey to Tasermiut fjord on a zodiac boat and even more interesting return journey to Nanortalik from the remote settlement of Aappilattoq.
The following morning, our adventure began. We went on a small zodiac boat for two hours to reach the heart of Tasermiut fjord. One can imagine how cold the journey was in an open boat... but it was truly special! :-)
The first day we spent on the northern shore in the heart of Tasermiut fjord was cloudy and rainy, however weather forecast was promising a sunny cloudless next day so we didn't really worry and spent a day in our tent playing cards and chatting.
We were a few tens of kilometres from the nearest civilization, and the sense of wilderness and adventure hanging in the air was magical. We were looking forward to what the next days will bring to us.
Here, we also met a Canadian photographer Paul Zizka with French filmmaker Mathieu Le Lay, who were photographing and shooting aerial footage in the area. What we didn't know that time was that this was about to be our last human encounter of the following 10-days journey.
We chose the northern shore of Tasermiut fjord as our starting point since we wanted to see the whole mountain range of Ketil, Ulamertorsuaq and Nalumasortoq peaks, aiming to climb one of the accessible hills on the northern shore to get a view of these spectacular mountains and the overall fjord.
The morning was cloudy, however soon the clouds started to disappear. We were waiting at our tent for the weather to finally settle, and were admiring the magical game of light that was happening just in front of us: moving clouds, sun breaking through the sky, and an astonishing scenery of magnificent mountain peaks.
The scenery here in this part of Tasermiut is really phenomenal and no photographs can really give a true sense of it; vertical walls of hundreds of meters raising right from the fjord, vast glaciers, and an utmost sense of remote wilderness all contribute to the overall mood.
We did a short hike to the west from our basecamp, aiming to climb one of the local hills to get some fine views of the area; we got beautiful views, however it was a tough and slow endeavour since dwarf trees and bush were really dense here.
Soon we were about to realize that this is the overall landscape pattern in the area (which we knew in advance however didn't really want to accept as reality).
We then spent a nice sunny afternoon in our camp, having enjoyed lunch during the half-day trip. It was really encouraging to witness how the sun is breaking through thick clouds, and soon all the clouds almost disappeared, leaving us in the beautiful wilderness with the most favourable weather one can dream of.
The evening plan was to climb a hill to the east from our camp, assuming the hike will be easier than the morning one given the treeless terrain.
The evening hike progressed smoothly though it was a constant ascent on a pathless terrain. The views across Tasermiut fjord were awesome, and we made frequent stops just to enjoy this unique scenery in the beautiful sunny weather.
Here we realized that we were right with our timing: no midges nor mosquitoes were flying around us. These creatures cease to exist just after first night frosts at the end of summer... in September, it was colder than in summer, however luckily without this flying annoyance.
Evening slowly came, and we started to witness and admire how the spectacular mountain massive ahead of us is changing its colour.
This game of light... in moments like this, one should be patient. Not to be in a hurry, not to leave; rather enjoy a cup of tee or coffee instead. Sit down and admire these wonderful views. Wait. And see.
The previous evening was rainy and cloudy, however now we were enjoying sunny weather on one of the most stunning places on the Earth. What a view! ... we were sitting on a rock cliff above the fjord, mesmerized by the unique scenery we were admiring.
Endless wilderness all around us, silence, no wind, setting sun, beautiful light.
It was only the second day of our trip, however we already felt this is the true highlight of our journey.
Yet more was about to come.
I've seen Aurora Borealis numerous times and so has Vítek. For Martin, however, this was about to be his first time.
Northern lights come when one doesn't wait for them and expect them. It's a laissez-faire type of a thing.
It was beginning of September, quite early for northern lights, yet it was could enough and cloudless for Aurora to appear.
We were sitting at a campfire we made, and at one time, I looked to the south across the fjord. And it was there. Aurora Borealis. The most magical performance of the skies.
I told Martin: "If you've never seen northern lights, ... there is a chance. Now."
It lasted for about one hour. Stunning, spectacular, beautiful.
We got up early to prepare for the packrafting ride to the southern side of Tasermiut. We knew and were told that early morning is the best time for crossing the fjord; later during the day, western winds were supposed to blow through the fjord, especially in sunny weather.
It was a long yet beautiful packrafting journey. We were paddling for about three hours when crossing the fjord, and occasionally a solitary curious seal was giving us company.
We were lucky with the windless weather; by all means we were aware how dangerous this fjord crossing is, and were really thankful for the calm conditions we got.
We had lunch at a campfire we made at the entrance to Klosterdalen valley, and were rather reluctant to start further journey, knowing how much difficult it will be given the terrain and our heavy 25+ kg backpacks.
It became cloudy, however luckily there were just a few midges and mosquitoes flying around. No need for headnets (I actually even didn't take one)... lucky us! We admired the monumental wall of Ketil peak, and were thinking how much challenging the climb of it may be...
When hiking in the valley, there was a narrow path appearing and disappearing constantly, and we did our best to follow it wherever possible, trying to avoid bushwhacking across dwarf willow and birch trees.
We hiked for a few hours through Klosterdalen valley, being thankful for the dry terrain; during (early) summer, the bottom of the valley had to be a wet under-water meadow that is really difficult to cross.
We found a nice camping spot at the east side of the valley, however our thoughts of having a campfire (there was plenty of dry dead wood around) were soon blown away by the soft evening rain.
It was cold through the night and it was snowing; mountain peaks around us were covered by fresh snow in the morning.
Luckily, the rain had stopped, and after breakfast we started to hike to the east towards a mountain pass connecting us with Tupaassat valley.
It was a tough and long ascent, however views of Ketil massive were astonishing; we saw monumental peaks and the whole valley all the way down to Tasermiut fjord from the mountain pass we reached.
We had lunch at a nameless lake just below the pass, and continued hiking to the southeast, enjoying an easier rocky and tundra terrain without dense dwarf trees we had to fight with in Klosterdalen.
We were continuously descending through Tupaassat valley towards a big nameless lake we aimed to cross using our packrafts.
It was quite early in the afternoon when we reached the lake, and after some hesitation we decided to packraft across it and then camp somewhere on the south side of it. It was a beautiful paddling, and the blowing northern wind was of welcomed help in our endeavour.
At the south side of the lake, it was not easy to find a convenient camping spot; finally, we found one at a river flowing out of the lake, and even had a small campfire. Tired and worn out, we fell asleep quickly.
Morning in Tupaassat was cloudy, however at least it wasn't raining. We packed our things and continued hiking to the southeast, from time to time crossing a maze of big boulders.
We inflated our packrafts a kilometre or so before the Drepanocladus Dam, and paddling on the meandering river flowing into it was a small delight; in fact, it was the only river during our trip we used for paddling, with the other ones being not suitable having not enough water or being too rapid.
(I would say that the best paddling in the area may be the beautifully meandering Uiluiit Kuua river in Klosterdalen, however this would require opposite hiking direction than the one we had).
We reached the mouth of Kangikitsoq fjord around lunch time, and swiftly turned to the west, starting to ascent through another valley towards the long valley of Quinnguadalen.
Here, we again had to pass through thick dwarf trees from time to time, and indeed it wasn't a pleasant bushwhacking battle; luckily enough, the upper part of the valley was treeless, and though steep, it was easier to wander through than its lower part.
It was a constant ascent during the whole afternoon on the barren pathless terrain, and it took us a few hours to reach a nameless lake located in the rocky mountain pass above the Quinnguadalen valley.
Here, it was a bit tricky to descent from the pass since some scrambling on the west side of the lake was required, together with crossing of snow field remains.
We camped just the below the pass on a small high-altitude meadow; the night was really cold, with temperature dropping below 0 °C.
Low grey clouds were lying above our camp in the morning, and soon it began to drizzle. The visibility was limited, and strong southwest wind started to blow.
Luckily enough, the temperature was around 0 °C, which meant the drizzle was actually rather of small frozen hail than of water, making our journey much more easier.
We expected the terrain to be tough, however at the beginning of the valley we didn't really know what the day will bring to us. Quinnguadalen is infamous for its "woods", which means gray-leaf willow and downy birch trees that are really difficult to pass through, and on top of that, there is also a set of big boulder mazes in the bottom of the valley.
We were continuously hiking to the southwest, progressing rather slow due to the difficult terrain. From time to time, we were enjoying an easy-going walk on the dry tundra grass and moss, which always brought some optimism into our minds.
Retrospectively, we should have better hiked at a higher altitude at the south side of the valley, which would had saved us some bushwhacking and bouldering, however this was hardly apparent from the upper parts of Quinnguadalen.
It was a long bushwhacking and bouldering battle during the whole day. It was cold, too, and we never stopped for longer periods of rest to stay warm.
Originally, we wanted to reach the Tasersuaq lake, however during the afternoon it became evident that it's still too faraway despite our heavy effort. So the goal was changed to go "as far as possible" and find a nice camping spot, also because the weather finally started to settle.
We camped at the Qinngua river down in the valley, quite close to the lake. The temperature dropped below 0 °C yet again during the night, however we fell asleep quickly knowing our progress was really good this day.
The morning was very cold, and though the sky was cloudless, we ate our breakfast and packed our things quickly to keep moving since the rising sun was not shining in our part of the valley.
We were quite close to Tasersuaq lake, yet two more hours of bushwhacking were required to cover the last mile of Qinnguadalen.
Having reached the lake, we swiftly decided to take a prolonged rest for a few hours. It was just too beautiful here to leave this pristine spot prematurely: sandy beach, morning sun, beautiful lake, no wind, and no insects buzzing around our heads. What to ask more?
There were a few footsteps of previous wanderers still visible on the sandy beach, however it had to be already a few days since someone had been hanging out here like we did.
In the middle of our journey to Aappilattoq, we were here alone, and the Greenlandic wilderness started to show us its most welcoming side.
We continued hiking after lunch we had at the lake, and after some bushwhacking we reached a tundra grassy plateau in the middle of Qingeq Kujalleq valley where progress became easier.
From time to time, we were battling with dwarf trees again, and following the stony and boulder-based river bed was finally the most sound option for ascent further up in the valley, especially given the low water levels.
Now a short video: a hard working hiker disappears in dense bush beaten by dwarf willow and birch trees, falling to the ground. Not easy going around here! :-). See below:
We found a lovely camping spot in the higher part of the valley, marked by a cairn on top of a rock; we contributed to the cairn visibility by adding a few more stones on top of it.
This was surely the most beautiful campsite of our overall journey, with campfire, sunny evening and windless conditions; northern lights came later in the evening as the sweetest northern present.
The morning was sunny and windless - one of those beautiful early autumn mornings in the wild. Enjoying the sun, we were intentionally slow and lazy with our morning chores, and it took us some time to pack our stuff; in the meantime, the sky started to cloud over.
The plan for the day was simple - to finally reach the mountain pass ahead of us, and then to descent in the eastern direction to Kangerluk fjord.
It took us a few hours to reach the pass, however the terrain was easier than the boulder & tree odyssey of previous days, and not surprisingly we were really thankful for that.
More to the east, the (unnamed) valley leading to Kangerluk fjord turned out to be of the easiest terrain so far, with dry tundra grass and small stones making the bottom of the valley.
On trips like this, reaching a mountain pass with a view to the other side of a hill is always a delight - and such was the place (a solitary rock) offering the first view of Kangerluk fjord with a few icebergs peacefully floating in it.
Here it became evident we made it through, the overall journey, the whole trip; the remote settlement of Aappilattoq was just a few kilometres away, literally just behind the corner - and we were enjoying vast views of this pristine northern wilderness, with no humans nor animals around.
We descended to the mouth of the fjord, and after some hesitation we decided to walk on its shore instead of inflating our boats and packrafting.
It already became cloudy and rather cold, and the most challenging factor would be the tidal flow since the high tide was about to begin. The current of rising tide was really strong as we witnessed from the fjord shore, and we were really thankful for our hiking preference - a wise choice.
There were a few small boulder fields to be crossed over during the last few kilometres and some tricky parts with salt water and seaweed on loose stones, however after some effort we finally made it through and pitched our tent at a river floating into the sea at Issortusut promontory.
It was cloudy, we were tired, and after evening meal we fell asleep quickly.
It started to rain during the night and it didn't stop till the morning.
Moreover, a strong wind started to blow.
An hour or so before dawn, we realized that our tent is literally floating in the middle of a small pond that was created during the night; we were not really lucky with our choice of the tent location. The terrain below it was flat and there was no water stream flowing into it, however it was just too hard or frozen beneath so the rain water was simply not soaking into the ground.
So we moved our tent, trying not to get more wet than we already were.
And then we waited. Waited... and waited. Patiently. For a few hours. For the whole afternoon. And evening. And the following night... and the next morning.
We were playing cards. Chatting. Drinking last remains of whisky.
On the second day before lunch time, it finally stopped raining. We ate our lunch, walked to the sea shore, inflated our packrafts, and headed out to the sea in the southern direction towards Aappilattoq.
It was a long packrafting endeavour. We wisely chose the low tide for our journey, however strong south wind creating sizeable waves was making our progress depressively slow.
Anyway, after two or three hours the decisive moment finally came, and we saw a few seaside houses of Aappilattoq for the first time.
Having reached the shore, we packed our packrafts, and entered the village feeling like real heroes; no one was really interested in us, though, and we became inhabitants of this remote village quite seamlessly.
We created our small campsite at a heliport on the south side of the village, just below a rocky knoll with a small transmission tower located on top of it, and with fine views of this Inuit settlement.
Having reached Aappilattoq one day than earlier than originally planned and required, we decided to explore the village and its surroundings tomorrow, aiming to climb one of the hills/cliffs rising right above the village to get some views of the overall fjord system.
The morning was cloudy, however promising weather was forecast for the afternoon and evening.
Having eaten breakfast, we set out on a day trip, aiming to climb a hill located to the north of the village, behind a river falling down from the peak and flowing into the sea.
After a few hours and a few vertical hundreds of meters we finally reached a mountain plateau with fine views across the overall fjord system, and with Aappillatoq village lying just below us.
To our uttermost delight, the clouds started to disappear during the afternoon, and in early evening the sky became blue, with gentle sunlight painting across the surreal wild landscape with its warm colours.
We stayed on the plateau for more than an hour enjoying the solitude and feelings of remoteness and wilderness.
End of the world, the last outpost, the most pristine of landscapes... these were our thoughts when observing the magical beauty of Ilua fjord below us and peaks and hills of Cape Farewell land to the southeast.
Having returned, we strolled through the village in the evening and enjoyed its lazy weekend atmosphere; there was no rush and we were not tempted to pursue another adventure since we had just enough.
So we were walking through the settlement, playing cards, looking at the sea, and enjoyed the sun...
We had to stay in Aappilattoq for one more day due to strong winds blowing at the coast; journey in an open boat all the way up to Nanortalik in this kind of weather would be rather dangerous and was not recommended by Themo, a friendly boat owner living in the village who gave us a ride.
It took us three days to get back to Prague from Aappilattoq; such time consuming is the travel from this very remote corner of the Earth. Boat journey to Nanortalik was followed by a helicopter flight to Narsarsuaq. On the next day, we flew to Kangerlussuaq and from there to Copenhagen where we arrived quite late in the evening, thus we needed yet another day for the final flight back to Prague.
During the trip, we travelled merely 105 km on foot and with packrafts, which means day average just around 10 kilometres; this may indicate that our tempo was too slow, however it was the pathless terrain with large boulder fields and areas with dense bush and trees that was making our progress so slow and difficult.
Except the first day, we met not a single person during the trip, and we felt like medieval explorers when we entered Aappilattoq on foot.
We learned there that just six groups in total visited the settlement in the same way as we did during the summer (beyond that, there are regular cruise ships visits as well as other organized trips in the area).
This has been our most adventurous and ambitious trip so far, and we were really glad to make it, as we were happy with our timing (September) minimizing infamous mosquitoes and midges attacks. The scenery around Tasermiut fjord is truly unique and astonishing, and the remote village of Aappilattoq is a lovely isolated place to spend some time in.
For us, Greenland will always remain on the (travel) list. There is still so much to do and explore... it's a beautiful unknown land.
© 2026 Northern Adventures
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